Devil's Peak/South Ridge

Because of its relative relief from the summit Devil's Peak offers far greater views and the feeling of an alpine climb than one would expect of its modest 5,456 ft summit. The rock on this climb is short, consisting of three short pitches of Class 4 climbing, but the combined steep snow approach and navigation challenges to reach it make this an excellent first alpine climb for new climbers.

getting there

Drive the Mountain Loop Highway to the town of Silverton.  Approximately 1 mile beyond turn left onto Deer Creek road. Follow Deer Creek road for approximately 1 mile to an abandoned logging road (1,968 ft) and park.

approach & ascent

Hike the logging road 2 miles until you reach the third switch back. Leave the road at this switchback looking for a faint climbers trail.  Follow Devil Creek staying on the left side until you reach the upper basin (~0.75 miles).  Continue left around the lake to the broad open slopes below Devil Peak on the west side of the lake. 

Ascend the snow to the visible notch between Devil Peak (right side)and the false summit (left side).  slightly below the notch rope up and belay off the large fir tree. 

The route goes up left of the summit block on solid Class 4 rock for roughly half a pitch to a Class 2-3 ledge system with trees.  Follow this ledge back right below the summit to a brush/tree filled gully.  Ascend the gully to the summit (Class 2).  

descent

Descend back down the gully and traverse the treed ledge to an obvious rappel tree (numerous slings).  A double rappel will get you back down to easy class 2 terrain.  A single rope rappel can be substituted but you will need to down climb Class 3 rock to finish the descent. 

notes

  • The approach for Devil Peak is notoriously brushy after snow melt. This climb is much more enjoyable when done with snow cover as an early season climb in May or early June.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing, Scrambling
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: May, June, July, August, September
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Basic Alpine Climb, Strenuous 3, Technical 4
  • Length: 6.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 3,500 ft
  • 5,456 ft
Map
  • USGS Silverton
  • Green Trails Silverton No. 110
  • Green Trails Mountain Loop Highway No. 111SX
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