Cutthroat Peak/Southeast Buttress

Cutthroat Peak via the Southeast Buttress is a Grade II, 5.6 rock climb.


Drive I-5 to Exit 232 (Cook Road) at Burlington. Turn east to Sedro Wooley and junction of SR 20. Turn left and drive through Marblemount (47 mi) and on to Rainy Pass. Continue east about three more miles and park along highway near Whistler Mountain sign.


Descend from highway to crossing of State Creek. Ascend open slopes on east side of southeast draining stream to basin immediately south of Cutthroat Peak.


Ascend to basin headwall and climb twin gullies to notch at base of Southeast Buttress. Start in right gully and traverse into left gully before notch. Above notch, easy scrambling leads to short, steep face. Stay generally near crest of buttress, then follow large ledge to the left. This leads to a gully that must be ascended to “Tarzan Jump” at its top. Scramble sandy gully above to notch between the false summit humps, then climb mixed 3rd, 4th and 5th class rock to summit.


Rappel and downclimb route or West Ridge.


Seattle to Trailhead 3.5
Trailhead to Camp 2 1,500
Camp to Summit 5-6 1,550
Summit to Trailhead 4


Light rack of mostly larger pro (1-2 in).


Very short approach from North Cascades Highway. Not an especially difficult route, but the overall length mandates efficient climbing to avoid a headlamp return or bivy, especially later in season. Some parties prefer to bivy in basin below peak night before climb.

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: May, June, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
  • Elevation Gain: 3,050 ft
  • 8,050 ft
  • USGS Washington Pass

Upcoming Activities

Intermediate Alpine Climb - Cutthroat Peak/Southeast Buttress

Climbing Trip
Climb to mentor Brent Williams as leader. Please contact him to register. This will
Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
Sat, Jul 14, 2018 - Sun, Jul 15, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration closes Jul 12
Olympia Branch
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