Cutthroat Peak/North Ridge

getting there

Drive I-5 to Exit 232 (Cook Road) at Burlington. Turn east to Sedro Wooley and junction of SR-20. Turn left and drive through Marblemount (47 miles) and on to Rainy Pass.

APPROACH

From Pacific Crest Trailhead (PCT), north of SR-20 at Rainy Pass, follow PCT north for about 20 minutes.

Leave trail at small stream bed just before large creek, and ascend steep open timber to basin northwest of the peak (brief avalanche swath debris to cross before entering basin. Ascend to head of basin and 7,520+ ft notch between north and south peaks.

ASCENT ROUTE

Gain ridge via obscure gully 200-300 ft south of notch. On ridge, rock improves significantly. Fifth class steps and easier climbing lead to base of summit block. Ascend easy broken chimney to summit. Running belays are frequently useful on this route.

DESCENT ROUTE

Downclimb route on easy terrain with several short rappels and one longer rappel to notch. Or descend West Ridge on West Ridge route (reportedly loose rock and high potential for rockfall).

TRIP PROFILE

EQUIPMENT

Light rack of mostly medium to large protection.

NOTES

• This is a short approach from North Cascades Highway to a short, uncrowded climb of modest technical difficulty.
• Some parties prefer to bivy in basin below ridge night before climb.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
• Seasons: May, June, July, August, September
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
• Elevation Gain: 3,000 ft
• High Point: 8,050 ft

• Land Manager: North Cascades National Park
• Parking Permit Required: None
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12