Chiwawa Mountain/Lyman Glacier

Chiwawa Mountain via the Lyman Glacier is a Grade II ice climb.

getting there

From US-2/US-97, turn northeast on SR-207. Drive 5.0 miles and then turn left on Forest Road 6200 (Chiwawa River Road).  Drive 22 miles, turn right on Forest Road 6211, and continue 2.5 mi to the Phelps Creek Trailhead (3,500 ft).


Ascend Spider Glacier (if using lower camp) to Spider Gap. Descend northwest, then west, under Peak 8,134, to about 6,500 ft onto the edge of the lower Lyman Glacier. Beware of falling rocks from the cliffs above, particularly on the left. Traverse then ascend southwest by west to the right side of the ice fall. Climb the obvious snow finger under the big rock face, to ice at about 7,000'. Two to three pitches of moderate ice climbing are usually found here.

The ice may not be continuous later in the season and some rock scrambling may be encountered. Stay generally right to avoid rock fall. Above the ice, continue up the glacier, swinging south up the moderately steep north facing snow slope and onto the rotten ridge northeast of the summit. Scramble the ridge to the summit. Super views! 


Generally moderate climbing encountered with some short steep sections available. A good first ice climb. You can usually choose the ice you want. Makes a very nice three-day climb. Permit required, fill out at trail head.

  • Difficulty: Intermediate Mountaineering Climb
  • 8,459 ft
  • Green Trails Holden No. 113
  • USGS Suiattle Pass
  • USGS Trinity
  • Green Trails North Cascades Lake Chelan No. 114SX

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