Bonanza & Martin Peaks

Bonanza has the distinction of being the tallest non-volcanic peak in Washington. Martin Peak is located immediately east of the much more famous Bonanza Peak. Both routes are near Holden Village and are among the Bulger Top 100 Peak in Washington. These routes offer a classic alpine Cascade climbing experience at the intermediate level, testing the mettle of those who attempt them.

Getting There

Take the Lady of the Lake boat from Chelan or Fields Point to the town of Lucerne. Take the school bus 13 miles to Holden Village. Camping is available a mile west of Holden Village at the Holden Ballpark Campground (3,300 ft).

Approach

From the campground hike the Railroad Creek Trail ~1 mile to its junction with the Holden Lake Trail (3,600 ft), turn right and hike 4 miles to Holden Lake (5,278 ft). Camp here (it can be buggy) or continue NNW from the head of the lake to good camping at Holden Pass (6,400 ft).

Ascent Route

Bonanza Peak/Mary Green Glacier (9,511 ft)

Intermediate Mountaineering Climb
14 miles round trip, 6,300 feet of elevation gain

From Holden Pass, make a rising traverse west along the ridge until reaching a snowfield below slabs (it may be snow-covered early season).  Scramble up the slabs to the northern edge of the Mary Green Glacier. Beware of potential icefall above.

Rope up and ascend the glacier bearing west along it's north edge (climber's right), then traverse southwest along the base of the Bonanza's northeast ridge until reaching the glacier's upper corner (southwest). From here climb the steep upper snow finger to climber's right until it's highest point and look for a way to exit left onto rock. There may be a moat and an overhanging snow slope here.

Climb the Class 3-4 rock just right of a gully for several rope lengths, then traverse left into another gully and scramble to a prominent notch in the upper northeast ridge just north of the summit (Class 4). Scramble along the loose ridge crest (Class 4) past a series of large blocks. The summit is on the south end of the ridge and resembles a horn (9,511 ft).

Martin Peak/West Ridge (8,511 ft)

Intermediate Mountaineering Climb
14 miles round trip, 5,300 feet of elevation gain

From Holden Pass, ascend east to the base of the west ridge of Martin Peak and gain the ridge crest. Scramble Class 4 rock easterly. There is easier terrain on climber's right (south side) of the ridge. Approximately 100 feet from the summit scramble a steep gully, exposed Class 4, to the summit (8,511 ft).

Descent Route

Bonanza Peak

Retrace the climbing route to the glacier, and the glacier route to the slabs below it. Either descend the slabs or look for a short rappel to the east. Retrace the route to camp.

Martin Peak

Descend the climbing route.

Trip Profile

Bonanza Peak/Mary Green Glacier

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Seattle to Trailhead 3.5   
Trailhead to Camp 3 3,100
Camp to Summit 5-6 3,200
Summit to TH 7-8 -6,300
Camp to Martin 3 2,200
Martin to Camp 2-3 -2,200

Martin Peak/West Ridge

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Seattle to Trailhead 3.5   
Trailhead to Camp 3 3,100
Camp to Martin 3 2,200
Martin to Camp 2-3 -2,200

Equipment

Bonanza Peak/Mary Green Glacier

Standard glacier travel gear.

notes

  • This trip is best done in 3-4 days because of the transportation.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Mountaineering Climb
  • Length: 14.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 6,300 ft
  • 9,511 ft
Map
  • Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
  • USGS Holden
  • Green Trails North Cascades Lake Chelan No. 114SX
Activities

Upcoming Activities

TAC MAC Alpine Climb - Bonanza Peak/Mary Green Glacier

Climbing Field trip: Mountaineers Adventure Club - Tacoma
Karter's leadership climb. This will be a complex and strenuous climb, and will only be
Difficulty: Intermediate Mountaineering Climb
Fri, Jun 21, 2024 - Sun, Jun 23, 2024
No Prerequisites
3 participants 1 instructor
Registration opens Jun 21; Instructor registration open now
Tacoma Branch
Sarah Holt
Qualified Youth Leader
Trip Reports
Titles

This is a list of titles that represent the variations of trips you can take at this route/place. This includes side trips, extensions and peak combinations. Not seeing a title that fits your trip? Log in and send us updates, images, or resources.

  • Bonanza Peak/Mary Green Glacier
  • Martin Peak/West Ridge
  • Bonanza Peak/Mary Green Glacier & Martin Peak/West Ridge
Resources

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