Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier (Mount Baker)

Trip

Basic Glacier Climb - Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier

Climb for Seattle WMCR/IGT course students only. Some of the participants/instructors attending ET2 (5/27-28) will extend their stay on the mountain for a summit bid to either Sherman Peak or Colfax Peak, depending on weather, snow conditions. Backup option will be considered to still enjoy the day off in the wilderness if weather at Baker isn't viable for a summit attempt.

  • Sun, May 28, 2023 — Mon, May 29, 2023
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Intermediate Alpine
  • Adults
  • Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Advanced Glacier Ski
  • Moderate
  • Mileage: 13.4 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 6,800 ft

High Camp  at Easton flats

Trip Report for Colfax:
https://stevensong.com/usa/washington/colfax-peak/ (only for the summit leg from the saddle at the roman wall as the approach is Colman-Deming here; Crossing from Easton to this saddle across Deming Glacier is a less-traveled route)

Trip Report for Sherman Peak:
https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/101321-tr-sherman-peak-squak-glacier-01142018/

Participant Expectations:

  • Eligibility: Winter Mountaineering Course or Intermediate Glacier Travel graduate or equivalent.
  • All to stick together as a group for our journey to the destination.
  • Pacing will be adjusted to accommodate one having a bad day, but everyone is welcome to self-evaluate if they are fit to join. if you do not know, please reach out to me and we can discuss it further.
  • All decisions shall be made and discussed with a full group.
  • Speaking up in the outdoors is difficult and I understand that, but I hope to be a friend and that you feel open to chatting or speaking up more. I certainly encourage that.
  • I also encourage all of my participants to have their thinking hats on and be equal participants. 
  • Trips tend to get canceled if self-care is not possible. 
  • Destination changes will be discussed in the email if the weather doesn't support this climb. All to participate in the decision-making of the same.
  • Pacing on my trips is to be, near and if possible, in our aerobic zones. Good training and conditioning will allow such to live this expectation on the trip and still have time to attain the summit if weather permits.
Route/Place

Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier (Mount Baker)


Roster
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped locking carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool)
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens
  • Cordellete
  • Picket or other relevant protection
  • Extra webbing or cord
Trip Reports