Rock Self-Rescue: Digging Deeper into the Toolbox

Rock self-rescue is comprised of many technical skills and hacks. While the Tacoma Mountaineers’ rock self-rescue section of the intermediate course provides a good introduction to the more commonly used methods, there is far more worth learning for those who wish to enhance their rescue skills. This two-evening ground school clinic is designed to supplement the skills taught in the rock module.

Pre-requisite: Completion the Tacoma Mountaineers’ rock self-rescue section of the rock module

Date and time: June 6th and 11th, 6:00-9:00 am, Tacoma Mountaineers Program Center

Cost: $20, members only  

Class size limited to 9

Instructor: Gregg J. Gagliardi

Content: The following methods are presented in a ground school format:

1.     Transition to baseline from a belay off of the harness.

2.     Advanced hauling system options

·       Minimalist carabiner-based system

·       Use of hardware tools: Tibloc, Microtraxion

·       Additional hacks to increase mechanical advantage.

3.     Advanced lowering skills:

·       Passing the connecting knot on a two-rope lower

·       Lowering heavy loads (e.g., victim + rescue attendant)

·       Reversible Load Strand Direct (LSD)

4.     Advanced rappel skills

Passing a knot while rappelling

·       Reepschnur/tagline rappel

·       Multi-pitch counterbalance rappel to tandem rappel

Gear list:

• 6 medium to large locking carabiners, 2 small lockers

• 6 non-locking carabiners
• 2 cordelettes (one should be made of nylon accessory cord or tech cord)
• 4 runners (two double-length runners and two autoblocks, one autoblock can be a VT)
• Guide style belay plate (e.g., BD ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso)

• 1 extra-large locking carabiner (e.g., Petzl William, DMM Boa)
• Pulley (Microtraxion or comparable device is a great choice but not required)
• Valdotain Tresse (VT) (sewn or tied) (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-xjqI1WOY8)*
• $26.59: https://www.bluewaterropes.com/product/7mm-vt-prusik/
• A store bought VT is not required. I will show you how to make one from a 48” section of 5-6mm accessory cord

Reading: See clinic handout: https://1drv.ms/w/s!AmahJ6ZhL9Uuk0Z31U8iwIiHGukT