Tacoma Intermediate Rock - Classroom Session 3 - Mountaineers Tacoma Program Center

TBD

Self Rescue by David Fasulo 2nd Edition (Notated as F2 in lecture notes below)

Updated extended rappel method: https://www.mountaineers.org/blog/how-to-extended-rappel

Videos:

How to use a guide-style belay device: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KM5c9wlTReo

Lecture Outline:

A. Discussion:

Field Trip Logistics – 5-10 mins
Field Trip and Lecture Gear: helmet, harness, boots, parabiner with belay device, personal anchor, cordelette, perlon slings, webbing slings (sewn or tied), locking biners, regular biners, extra slings, Self Rescue Book by Fasulo-2nd edition
Rescue perspective (15 mins)
Safety chair perspective – 10 years …
Should we vs. can we rescue
Subjective pressures you will face
o New leader roles (vs. seasoned leaders), perceived or real hierarchy issues
o Credit for climb drives us forward, embarrassment of rescue
o Impressing others is a part of what we do – inevitable, but be cautious
When things go wrong, slow down
PACE: Plan – Assess – Check – Execute – don’t rush into a system
Rescues from others take time… at least hours and possibly days
If something happens:
o Can we v. should we – evaluate carefully
o PACE yourselves
o Pinky swear…
B. Fasulo’s ACBs (5 mins)

Assessment – patient, terrain (real ledges, technical ledges), confidence in technical skills
Course of Action – descend, ascend, stabilize/shelter in place
Belay – direct belay from anchor, redirected belay, harness belay
C. Technical Skills Practice:

Knots – building blocks for self rescue (30 mins) – (no Dyneema that slides – low melt point)
- Friction hitches – Klemheist (F2 pg 47), Autoblock, Prusik and Bachman
- Load-releasable – Mariner (F2 pg 37), munter-slipped half hitch (F2 pg 35),
device slipped half hitch (F2 pg 90)
Three methods of belaying – advantages and disadvantages of each (30 mins)
1. Belay off harness toward climber while anchored behind you (basic course method)
2. Redirected belay off harness toward anchor – increases fall load on anchor, facilitates rescue
3. Belay from anchor (aka Direct Belay) – special (guide style) device needed for hands-free, facilitates rescue, have belay backup when lowering someone.
a. Unloading a direct belay (short descent to ledge) – skinny sling, over high biner, munterhitch belay backup (F2 pg 95 with munter not autoblock)
b. 3:1 haul for stuck follower (short ascend) – prusik, biner (F2 pg 166 but ignore harness tie-in)
Rescuing the Second - Counterweight Rappels:
A. Direct Belay (belaying off the anchor) - when there is a real ledge to take the weight of the follower (F2 pg 5-9 and 160-1).
B. Harness Belay - Building a “technical ledge” use when there is no ledge to lower the follower onto (F2 pg 168-9). A Technical Ledge = friction hitch + load releasable hitch combo *MEMORIZE*
Rappels and Belay from Anchor
1. Extended Device rappels –halved cordelette or single sling benefits (F2pg 24)
2. Saddle bags (ropes get caught on throws)
3. Assisted rappel/tandem rappel using a cordelette (F2 page 108)