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Trip Report    

Basic Glacier Climb - Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier (Mount Baker)

2-day climb of Mt Baker via the Squak Glacier

  • Road suitable for all vehicles

Saturday June 24

7:30 AM met at Ash Way P&R

10:45 AM started hiking from Park Butte/Scott Paul TH (parked ~1/4 mile from actual TH on side of road)

The Scott Paul trail was muddy in places. 

Continuous snow starting at about the 4600’ saddle.

 2:30 PM arrived at ~6760’ camp just north of the point 6513’ labeled Crag View on USGS. We reached this point by staying on the east side the 6513’ Crag View rock buttress. Setup tents on snow. Used some rocky outcrops as our kitchen. Melted snow for water.

4:45 PM eat dinner

~8:30 PM bedtime

Sunday June 25

3 AM wake up

4:23 headed out of camp, roped up

8:30 AM arrived at summit

8:30 AM – 9 AM summit treats and summit photos

9 AM started back down, stopped for photos/view at Sherman crater overlook

11 AM back at camp, pack-up

12 noon started hiking back to TH

2 PM back at TH 

There were light winds, clearing skies, and moderate (above freezing) temperatures overnight. There were even some stars out in the early AM hours. We had firm snow and good cramponing on ascent. There were lots of boot tracks to follow from camp. Route is in great shape. Only a couple of crevasses to skirt on the Squak Glacier. The boot tracks turned into a cattle trail where the Squak route meets up with the Easton route at ~9600’. There were lots of teams going up and down the steeper snow between the crater overlook and the summit plateau. While traveling in this area we shortened the roped distance between climbers to assist with navigating the switch backs through this steeper and congested area. It was sometimes necessary to wait for others to pass. One also had to be cognizant of what side (uphill vs downhill) you were passing or being passed on.  Multiple boot paths had been beaten into the snow, allowing for easy travel. By the time we were descending this area, it was in the sun and the snow had softened enough to plunge step a more direct line down.

Party size:6

 Gear Carried: 1x40m rope, 1x30m rope, ice axe, crampons, 1 picket per person, standard glacier gear. Did not need to set any pickets for protection.