Basic Alpine Climb - Sloan Peak/Corkscrew Route, Cougar creek approach

There has been a recent very nice trip report by Colin Corbin. Here only a few additions.

Overall a very fun trip, even though we had way, way more smoke than forecasted. The approach is straightforward, the glacier still passable, though with a somewhat spicy traverse.  Fun trip with many elements. This time of the year this trip should count for glacier credit.

The river crossings this late in the year were not an issue at all, between easy and trivial. The second one following Colin's report has dried out. So, when you cross the very wide and sandy creek, stay left to pick up the trail. After that finding the trail was straightforward for the rest of the approach.  When you hit a giant cairn at 5100-5200ft, turn left and up. Wonderful camp at 5300ft with plenty of water a little below. 

On summit day, we stepped on the glacier way below what most tracks show. That way we avoided a good section of slab crossing, and some blue ice on the glacier. Easy access to the glacier too. We stayed below the rock island, and mostly traversed from there without gaining much elevation. One switchback over a crevasse, then a quarter mile fairly exposed traverse. The latter part of this is certainly a no-fall zone. Good to bring 4+ pickets to place there. The snow was nice and firm, not icy. Getting off the glacier no problem.

The hike around was straightforward. Route finding on the scramble was easy too. Once you turn left at the end of the first gully, you follow an obvious, sometimes dirty tread. The steep move at the end of the first gully was the most challenging move, the 'bear hug' move towards the end much easier than expected. 

car - camp 11am-4pm

camp - summit: 6am-10am

summit - camp: 10:30am - 1pm

camp - car: 2:15pm - 6pm