Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier (Mount Baker)


Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Squak Glacier

Ski mountaineering climb of Mt Baker via the Squak. Plan is to spend the night on the glacier and do this over two days. Mentored lead for Chris Haenisch.

  • Fri, Jun 2, 2023 — Sat, Jun 3, 2023
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Advanced Glacier Ski
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 13.4 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 6,800 ft
  • Pace: min 1,000'/hr

We will meet in Seattle or else en route as decided by the group so as to minimize the number of cars on FS Rd 13 since the FS road to the Schreiber's Meadow TH may not be clear yet in which case we will be parking alongside the road as close to where it becomes covered in snow as possible.

First and foremost, this is a ski mountaineering trip.  Participants should be skiers/splitters with dedicated lightweight touring setups as well as glacier travel/crevasse rescue training.  When traveling on the glacier, we will be traveling roped up.

I would prefer to do this as an overnight and camp above 6,000'.  If we only have one day of good weather, we'll do it as a single push, potentially on the Easton.

The gain is almost 7,000' and assuming we do it as an overnight, the first day and ski out will be with full overnight packs.  So good fitness and familiarity skiing with a heavy backpack will be important for a successful trip.

Leader permission is required for this trip.  When you reach out, please speak to your backcountry skiing experience, glacier travel/crevasse rescue experience, and physical conditioning.  This is a mentored lead for Chris Haenisch.  I will be forwarding your requests for permission to him and he will be the person reaching out to you and coordinating the trip.


Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier (Mount Baker)

Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Backcountry ski/snowboard setup
  • Boot and Ski Crampons
  • Avy gear
  • An ice axe or whippet
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • 2 alpine draws
  • Accessory cords/prusiks
  • 4 locking carabiners
  • Straight gate carabiners as needed
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Shell jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports