Luahna Peak/Pilz Glacier


Basic Glacier Climb - Luahna Peak/Pilz Glacier

Luahna the "hard way"!

  • Sat, Jul 13, 2024 — Mon, Jul 15, 2024
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Glacier Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 16.0
  • Elevation Gain: 10,300 ft
  • Pace: 1,000 ft/hr min

We'll meet Saturday morning in Seattle to carpool out to the TH or at the Little Giant Pass TH as determined by the group prior to the trip.

This is a very challenging approach to a beautiful peak deep in the Glacier Peak Wilderness.  Interested participants should be in excellent physical condition.  This is not one of the typical "check the box" basic glacier climbs.  When you reach out for permission, please describe your current physical condition, conditioning program, and previous trips of similar level of involvement so that climb leader can determine if this trip will be a good fit.

This will be a three day trip using an itinerary very similar to that described in the club trip description, so two nights at Butterfly Butte (unless we slay it on summit day and want to get out early).

The Napeequa River Valley is stunning....should be gorgeous.


Luahna Peak/Pilz Glacier

  • USGS Clark Mountain

    USGS Trinity

    Trails Illustrated Glacier Peak Wilderness

    Green Trails Holden No. 113

    Green Trails North Cascades Lake Chelan No. 114SX
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports