Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver


Basic Glacier Climb - Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

Ski mountaineering trip to Glacier Peak. We will pick the best 3 of 5 days based on the weather forecast. A/T or splitboard set up required.

  • Thu, May 25, 2023 — Mon, May 29, 2023
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Glacier Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 33.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 8,200 ft

We'll meet at the TH on the day the group determines for the start.  Time tbd.

This is a ski mountaineering trip!

Game plan will be to get to camp on day 1, climb and ski Glacier on day 2, and return to the cars on day 3.  If the skiing is great, we can do some yo-yo'ing on day 2.  If not, we can ski back to camp, pack up, and move camp to expedite day 3.

Glacier Peak is a haul!  Please  self select out of this trip if your fitness is not  up for a three long days with overnight packs and skimo gear.

AIARE 1 and Basic Climbing Grads.

When you reach out for permission, let me know about your fitness, ski touring experience, and crevasse rescue competency.

Mandatory Chipotle stop on the way home! 


Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

  • USGS Glacier Peak West

    USGS Glacier Peak East

    USGS Sloan Peak

    Green Trails Mountain Loop Highway No. 111SX

    Green Trails Glacier Peak No. 112

    Trails Illustrated Glacier Peak Wilderness
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Approach shoes
  • A/T or splitboard set up
  • Avy gear
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports