Lecture: Intermediate Glacier/Alpine Module

Lecture - Mountaineers Tacoma Program Center

Intermediate Lecture 1 - Snow Skills - Rescue Techniques and Emergency Shelters

  • Moderate

Tacoma Program Center 7 pm, Upstairs Classroom

1. Lecture prepwork:

2. Discussion:

  • Field Trip expectations
  • Rescue Techniques - topic outline is found in the course materials tab.
  • Questions/clarification on reading or videos for the lecture topics

3. Skills  Practice (stations):

  • Canadian drop loop 6:1
  • If time allows, rappeling into and ascending "out of a crevasse"

 4. Homework (for lecture 2):

  • Create a trip plan for a glacier climb, which will be critiqued by instructors and other students. The climb is for a 3 day climb of Mount Rainier via the Emmons route. Below is the criteria.
  1. Climb date: mid June (however, think about how your plan might change with the season (going in Sept) and snow conditions).
  2. 4 leaders, 8 brand new basic students (think about how your plan could change with different types of students and how you can mitigate the situation).
    1. All strong students - you showed up to the basic field trips and figured out who you want to climb with and let those people on your climb. You made sure to add all of them before anyone else could ask to get onto your trip.
    2. Mostly strong students, but none of them have ever been on a glacier climb or above 10,000ft, so you really aren't sure how they are going to do.
    3. You have no idea who is on your climb - you just let anyone sign up, and you have heard from other instructors that some of your students have more enthusiasm than ability.
  • Study the 6:1 drop loop video and handouts for the field trip.
  • Do required reading and study handouts and videos about snow travel, snow anchors, and snow belays for Lecture 2.

    Mountaineers Tacoma Program Center

    Required Equipment

    Required Equipment

    Bring Pen and Paper if you want to take notes

    Bring all your basic glacier gear (no crampons), plus

    - a second picket (recommended a yates cable picket)

    - a second pulley

    - a second (5.5mm) prusik/hero loop

    - belay device that has guide mode (such as the Black Diamond ATC-Guide or the Petzl Reverso)

    - cordellete (20-28 ft, 7mm perlon cord or 5.5 high strenght cord, such as titan dyneema)

    Trip Reports