Lecture - Mountaineers Tacoma Program Center

1. Lecture prepwork:

• Watch videos:
  • Canadian 6:1 Drop Loop Crevasse Rescue
    
  • How to Rope Up for Glacier Travel
  • How to Transfer a Fallen Climber's Weight to a Snow Anchor for Crevasse Rescue
  • How to Back Up a Snow Anchor for Crevasse Rescue
  • How to Rappel Into and Ascend Out of a Crevasse
  • How to Prepare a Crevasse Lip for Rescue
  • How to Haul a Climber Out of a Crevasse
• Required Reading:
  • Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th Edition:
    • Chapter 18 - Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue
      
    • Chapter 3 - Camping, Food, and Water
  • Backing up an Anchor for Crevasse Rescue. L. Goldie.

2. Discussion:

• Field Trip expectations
• Rescue Techniques - topic outline is found in the course materials tab.
  
• Questions/clarification on reading or videos for the lecture topics

3. Skills  Practice (stations):

• Canadian drop loop 6:1
• If time allows, rappeling into and ascending "out of a crevasse"

 4. Homework (for lecture 2):

• Create a trip plan for a glacier climb, which will be critiqued by instructors and other students. The climb is for a 3 day climb of Mount Rainier via the Emmons route. Below is the criteria.
  

1. Climb date: mid June (however, think about how your plan might change with the season (going in Sept) and snow conditions).
2. 4 leaders, 8 brand new basic students (think about how your plan could change with different types of students and how you can mitigate the situation).
   
   1. All strong students - you showed up to the basic field trips and figured out who you want to climb with and let those people on your climb. You made sure to add all of them before anyone else could ask to get onto your trip.
   2. Mostly strong students, but none of them have ever been on a glacier climb or above 10,000ft, so you really aren't sure how they are going to do.
   3. You have no idea who is on your climb - you just let anyone sign up, and you have heard from other instructors that some of your students have more enthusiasm than ability.

• Study the 6:1 drop loop video and handouts for the field trip.
• Do required reading and study handouts and videos about snow travel, snow anchors, and snow belays for Lecture 2.

Tacoma Program Center 7 pm, Upstairs Classroom