Social: Two-Person Glacier Travel and Solo Crevasse Rescue


Social: Two-Person Glacier Travel and Solo Crevasse Rescue - Mountaineers Seattle Program Center

Social among intermediate students, climb leaders, and others interested in 2-person rope teams.

  • Sun, Feb 11, 2024
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Intermediate Alpine
  • Adults
  • Casual

9:30 am  in Goodman A

We often travel over glaciated terrain to get to rock or ice routes that we prefer to do in parties of two. Also, at times ponder the idea of traveling on glaciers with a partner, either doing the trip yourselves or joining friends on different ropes.

During this social, we will learn/review how to:

  • Set up efficiently for glacier travel as a single two-person team: distance between climbers, knots on the rope (when to use, how to space), tie-in, kiwi coil, required gear. Reading material will also be provided in advance before we meet.
  • Arrest a fall and build an EARNEST anchor while in arrest position, without relying on external help.
  • Rappel into the crevasse, provide first-aid, attach a rope to the fallen climber, and reascend. Plan for improvising as needed using slings or extending the anchor.
  • Set up a 6:1, 8:1, or 9:1 mechanical advantage system and haul the fallen climber out of the crevasse while removing slack.

After a brief demonstration, we will move to the North Wall, where participants will take turns performing the full crevasse rescue scenario, including rappeling into and ascension out of a crevasse, with an instructor present.


Mountaineers Seattle Program Center

Required Equipment

Required Equipment

    • 2 pickets
    • ATC Guide or equivalent
    • pulley
    • progress capture (tibloc, microtraxion, etc., or you can use your ATC)
    • 2 hero loops
  • 3 single runners (60cm), 2 doubles (120cm), 1 triple (180cm)
  • cordelette
  • 4-5 lockers, 4 non-lockers
  • helmet
  • harness
  • headlamp
  • layers
  • rain gear
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