Winter Mountaineering & Advanced Crevasse Rescue (WCR) - Seattle - 2023

Climbing Course

Winter Mountaineering & Advanced Crevasse Rescue (aka Intermediate Glacier Travel) - Mixed Cohort

Looking to be a glacier rope lead? Would you like to prepare yourselves to go out on glaciers in winter and spring? Are you interested in learning 2-person glacier travel and crevasse rescue in different scenarios? This course prepares you to plan trips and introduces you to the above topics.

The application / REGISTRATION period is closed. AND THE ROSTER REFLECTS THE SELECTED CANDIDATES.


CURRICULUM

  • Winter Mountaineering: emergency shelters, snow anchors, belaying, lowering, steep snow, gear management
  • Advanced Crevasse Rescue: Higher mechanical advantages and efficiencies (5:1, 6:1, 7:1, 8:1, 9:1) for hauling/raising systems than that taught in the Basic curriculum (2:1 or 3:1)
  • Small Party Rescue: Scene Size-up, making and executing a plan, releasable hitches, administering aid
  • Glacier Travel: anchors and belaying in firm snow/ice, glacier navigation and terrain selection, trip planning 
  • Leadership: leading a rope team on glacier climb, techniques for rope management and moving efficiently, working with basic students and peers
  • 2-person glacier travel: Rope setup, traveling techniques, and solo crevasse rescue

Course lectures, Workshop, field trips & experience trips:

  • Kick-off: Socializing. Basic skills check & review (knots, rope ascension, 2:1 or 3:1 hauling system on a 3-person rope team.
  • Lectures: These will be held on The Mountaineers' coassemble platform. You will be added to it once registered and can take them asynchronously. The topics for lectures are:
    • Theory  on gear and systems (to be completed before FT1)
    • 2-person glacier travel techniques (to be completed before FT2)
    • Trip Planning & Leadership (to be completed before Workshop)
  • Workshop: Students will be divided into small groups to do trip planning and navigate some leadership topics for execution.
  • Field Trips (FT):
    • FT 1: Top site belays and lowering, releasing tie-offs to escaping the system, mechanical advantages
    • FT 2: 2-person glacier travel practicing setting up the rope and doing self-rescue with desired mechanical advantage
    • FT 3: Small Party Rescue - Helping a second rope team in crevasse rescue with desired mechanical advantages
  • Experience Trips (ET):
    • ET1: Winter camping, touring, snow belays, lowering and rappels on steep terrain, winter gear use, trip planning execution
    • ET2: In Spring conditions practice rope lead & rope management, navigating crevasses, and rescue scenarios in a crevasse

This module is one of the 6 Intermediate course modules. To learn more about the intermediate program visit the Seattle Intermediate webpage.

This course is the pre-requisite course to becoming a rope leader on glacier climbs for The Mountaineers.
This course also prepares you with the fundamentals of winter glaciated mountaineering trips, safe traveling techniques, systems for 2-person travel, and executing rescues.

Course Requirements

This course has no scheduled activities.

Roster
Course Materials
Name/Description
2018 Intermediate Alpine Climbing Handbook

Info about prerequisites for modules and club climbs, graduation requirements, course tracking and more.

WMCR Course Handbook - Seattle v2024.pdf

WMCR FT4 Small Party Rescue Skills v2024.pdf