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The Tooth/South Face

We met at the trailhead shortly after 6 am and departed just before 7 am. The winter route is still in good shape; there are only a few exposed sections on the traverse where postholing was a problem, although on a warmer day it would be melting out fast. We did not bring or need snowshoes although poles were very helpful. The snow finger to Pineapple Pass is melting out fast but was still just a simple step across. The traverse over to the base of the rock climb is tricky with a mix of snow and rock/dirt so ice axes are still required. The approach took us just over 3 hrs. The rock face is fully melted out. We extended the second pitch to the base of the catwalk, which saved some time but incurred some serious rope drag as a result. We all enjoyed the breathtaking step across the catwalk and arrived at the summit shortly before 2 pm to enjoy views of Rainier, St Helens?, Stuart, and the other peaks of the Central Cascades. Summit brownies were enjoyed by all! We descended with a double rope rappel followed by two single rope rappels, then scrambled from the base of the climb over to Pineapple pass and then descended with a lovely glissade. The snow was mushy and there was some postholing on the return to the trailhead. We were in the cars by 7 pm and enjoyed some lovely Indian food on our way home. A great climb--thanks to Rena Chinn for my first mentored lead, and to all the climbers for their fun loving attitudes.

 

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Erica Cline
Erica Cline says:
Mon, May 23, 2016 11:45 AM

<p>We met at the trailhead shortly after 6 am and departed just before 7 am. The winter route is still in good shape; there are only a few exposed sections on the traverse where postholing was a problem, although on a warmer day it would be melting out fast. We did not bring or need snowshoes although poles were very helpful. The snow finger to Pineapple Pass is melting out fast but was still just a simple step across. The traverse over to the base of the rock climb is tricky with a mix of snow and rock/dirt so ice axes are still required. The approach took us just over 3 hrs. The rock face is fully melted out. We extended the second pitch to the base of the catwalk, which saved some time but incurred some serious rope drag as a result. We all enjoyed the breathtaking step across the catwalk and arrived at the summit shortly before 2 pm to enjoy views of Rainier, St Helens?, Stuart, and the other peaks of the Central Cascades. Summit brownies were enjoyed by all! We descended with a double rope rappel followed by two single rope rappels, then scrambled from the base of the climb over to Pineapple pass and then descended with a lovely glissade. The snow was mushy and there was some postholing on the return to the trailhead. We were in the cars by 7 pm and enjoyed some lovely Indian food on our way home. A great climb--thanks to Rena Chinn for my first mentored lead, and to all the climbers for their fun loving attitudes.</p>