Trip Report
The Tooth/South Face
Beautiful, slightly smokey, climb of the Tooth on a Friday
Peter Tran
- Fri, Aug 25, 2017
- The Tooth/South Face
- Climbing
- Successful
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- Road suitable for all vehicles
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Trail is in great shape (dusty and can be crowded if you leave late). Some wet rocks on the talus field approaching GSB, but you can step over it. One snow patch in GSB that you can walk up or walk around. Climb is in great shape
Let the Alpental Trailhead at 1110. The parking lot was surprisingly full for a Friday morning. We passed a dozen hikers on the way to Source Lake. Reached Source Lake in 35 minutes, base of the climb in 1:50. We spent about 10 minutes undoing the rats nest of rope (brand new Black Diamond 9.2mm, so shiny) and a few more minutes gearing up. I lead the first two pitches in one go, using a number 3, slinging a tree, a number 1, and .25 (using all doubles) and the rope drag was still huge. We scrambled the third pitch sans rope, then pitched out the 4th pitch. We decided to go climbers right into the crack system, then traverse left onto the big flake above the catwalk. The final move to top out was a small foothold, mantling move, probably 5.5/5.6. Reached the summit at 2:40 pm.
Stayed on top for about 30 minutes; the teamed up with another party to double rope rap back to the base of the climb. We reached the base at approximately 5 pm due to someone losing their cell phone and looking around for it. Turns out it was in his backpack.
Packed up our gear and headed out; back at our cars a 6:30
Great day, great weather, just a little smokey. Also, I caught a ride on a dino that wanted to climb up the route
