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Trip Report    

Prusik Peak/West Ridge

We camped between Inspiration and Perfection Lake. From there is was only 30 minutes to Prusik Pass and about another hour to the base of the climbing route. After the first bump, I think it's easiest to stay on the north side to get to the base on the climbing route (cairns, obvious traffic).

We found the route description in Jim Nelson and Beckey books to be descriptive enough. We had a great day on warm rock with sunny skies. The climb was about 8 hours total with an hour long stay on the summit. The descent was 5 60m single rope rappels down the north side back to walkable ground. After the 2nd rappel, there is a short 1 minute class 2-3 scramble, skiers right of where the 2nd rappel ends. You won't be able to see this rap station from where the 2nd one ends.

Rope leaders for the 5.7 pitch should be confident in their friction climbing. While the climbing here is short (3-4 moves), hands only provide balance.