Mount Baker/North Ridge

The North Ridge goes! Despite the poor condition of the lower Coleman glacier and almost no snow at the nose of the glacier at the Heliotrope Ridge camps, there is a good track across the middle Coleman to get to the base of the ridge. We scouted the crossing on Sat, which helped us make two route adjustments compared to the 6500 traversing line mid-way across. There is a substantial shrund below the upper access fan to gain the ridge, but access to the lower north ridge works well and is in good shape.

The next morning we departed camp around 2am and made good time across the Coleman and up onto the ridge, to the 9800 ice pitches. We climbed the left side of the ice (3 pitches from the top of the rocks below the ice, then simul-climbed the balance of ice to gain the top of the ridge. Temps were warm, and ice quality had a lot of air in it; we were able to find better ice after removing some of the top layers.

The secret passage and left access below the summit block did not appear to go; we traversed right to an access point at about a "2-o'clock direction" and ascended between two serracs. From there, a good snow/ ice path left, right, and up leads to the upper summit plateau.

The Coleman Glacier descent is in good shape; there was more snow than I expected.