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Trip Report    

Mount Baker/Easton Glacier

Saturday we finally met at the trailhead and started the approach at 11AM. Total of 8 in party, 3 leaders and 5 students. A cancellation brought the group down to 2 ropes of 4. Took winter approach, had to scramble rock in a few spots to get on the Railroad grade, nothing over a Class 4. Got to camp at 6500' at 6PM. Great place to camp, flat area and guarded from wind.

Started climb at 4:30AM on Sunday, reached summit at 11AM at slow pace. Few small crevasses to cross, no belay needed. One snow bridge at around 8000', did not require a belay. No moat at the crater rim to get onto the Roman wall like other years. Approach up the middle of the Roman wall to avoid large holes on the climber's right.

Took about 45 minutes at summit, great weather and pictures. Snow was firm on approach, but by noon snow conditions were very slushy. Some members of the party had issues with coming down because of knee and fitness issues. Got back into camp (6500') at 4:30PM. Took a break at camp to break down and make water for the approach out. Left camp at 6PM, went down the traditional trail for the climb's approach. Arrived at trailhead at 10PM.

Note - There was snow for most of the climb, starting at trailhead. However did not need snowshoes.