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Trip Report    

Lundin Peak/West Ridge

Met at Eastgate P&R at 6:30. Alpental TH at 8. Climbing at 8:15. Dry, steep climb via Cave Ridge Trail up to a turnoff to Lundin at approximately 5160'. Traversed right a bit too low across loose boulder field. Some bushwhacking to climb higher to reach the ridge between Snoqualmie & Lundin skipped pitch 0 by staying on the ridge and doing a class 3/4 horizontal scramble to the base of the climb. Roped up at base. Pitch 1 - crux move is first move and pretty easy at that. Mostly third/fourth class. Set up belay anchor at tree beyond where rappel station was located, at the base of a slab (if you go up it you will have a small drop off at the top; rather, go left to find a 2nd class trail). This produced a lot of rope drag.
Unroped and moved belay station further back around an exposed rocky cliffside (small rock step-around to reach) boot path on other side towards base of pitch 2. Pitch 2 mostly class 4 except for low 5th class section under rappel station. Short but exposed. Unroped scramble to summit.
Gorgeous 360 views of Rainier, Adams, Baker, The Brothers, Stuart and other surrounding peaks. Lunch on summit then a short exposed scramble down to rap station. Replaced disintegrating runners with new runners. Cordelette at station will need to be replaced soon as well. Rappelled down 5th class section and then walked to rappel station at top of original pitch 1. Rappelled or down-climbed to scramble back to packs. Decided to tag Snoqualmie Mountain via a long loose boulder traverse to the left of the small choss pile that may have been a peak or subpeak of Snoqualmie at some point. Climbed up to gain ridge occasionally bushwhacking through trees to get to ridgeline towards spire. Skirted climbers right to descend narrow ridge to base of Snoqualmie. Traversed to gain summit by climbing towards gully @climbers right of pinnacle to ascend to summit via dirty ramp w loose rocks. Stay to right of ramp to friction climb up slabs instead. Beautiful views. Descended via Snoqualmie trail and found the trail we should have taken to Lundin (approximately 5160'). It is fainter than the main trail but definitely looks like a trail. Dusty, sandy dry descent. Everyone was out of water (began with 3L per person). Party of 5. 1 rope team of 3, one of two. Car to car 12.5 hours (delayed somewhat by off-route traverse to Lundin, replacement of rappel slings and slow descent).
This is one of the easiest basic rock climbs and can easily be made into two pitches. For people comfortable on the terrain, it could easily be a fourth class scramble. Only the final section to the upper rappel station has dangerous runout (other than the ridge walking throughout) so for new leaders it would be worth protecting.

 

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