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Trip Report    

Lundin Peak/West Ridge

Attempted an early-season climb after hearing there was still snow in the upper Commonwealth Basin. Started at the PCT trailhead and took the Commonwealth Basin approach; there was patchy snow in the lower basin, and the slide alder was not yet full opened up yet- so the bushwalking was not that bad. Could not locate the "climber's trail" so made a gentle, rising traverse from 4,100 which was successful in getting us to 5,000ft elevation; snow primarily covered the scree above 5,500 ft elevation. Made good time to the start of the climb (5 hours).

We were a team of three (leader + two rope leads), so we simul-climbed the route together on one rope; the north faces of the route are still under snow, which created some interesting challenges particularly just below the top of the false summit. Snow/ ice over wet heather; route was otherwise clear.

The rappel was straightforward, but the north side of the scramble/ descent route is completely under snow; we did not consider attempting to traverse it, as it was pretty steep. Attempted to cross the south side via loose-rock-laden ledges to reach the Red Mountain Saddle, but opted to backtrack to the base of the rappel route and descend back into Commonwealth Basin the way we came in. Plunge stepping made things easier, and we were back at the cars 13 hours later. Spend extra time route-finding on the climb itself, and trying to find a way back to the saddle. Nice one-day climb.

 

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