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Trip Report    

Lane Peak: Zipper & Lovers Lane

A fun couloir climb on firm icy snow. Picket-palooza!

  • Road suitable for all vehicles

Private climb of 4 mounties. Gate opened shortly before 9am, we started out at 930 from the parking lot. Snow conditions were firm and icy with the occasional post hole during the decent to the base of the climb. It was a busy weekend! A party size of about 10 people going up the zipper, with some snowboarders following behind them. We climbed up to right below the first notch of Lovers Lane, and set up a belay off a large tree.


Snow was firm and icy most of the way up. One small bulge of ice for a screw placement, rock was horrible so no placements were made. Tree anchor for the second pitch, and then picket anchors the rest of the way up. One member managed to get a piton in an icy rock section, but it pulled easier than desired..We had a party that showed up behind us after the first pitch. In total 4 full 70m pitches, with a belay to traverse down to the rappel tree. There were some moats on two of the pitches, and some at the bottom of the rappel. Double 60m rappel, if you don't want to down climb although that would be manageable too. We were running late for the gate closure, so one party member down climbed, while the rest rappelled off of picket anchors down the rest of the zipper. We down climbed for awhile once out of the couloir and made it back to the gate around 630pm. Just in time to beg a park ranger to let us out.. All in all a fun full day. Will be back to check out the route once more ice forms!