Trip Report    

Kololo Peaks/White Chuck Glacier

Sunny 3-day climb of Glacier and Kololo

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • Plenty of water at any camp.  Very few crevasses on route to either peak, we found no reason to rope up.

The hike in from the North Fork Sauk is a nice trail, but exceptionally long.  We brought trail runners for the approach.  Rather than leave Foam Creek via Foam Pass, we went west of Point 6770 and found it more pleasant.  Found a large campsite of wind sheltered sandy spots at 6600 between many small lakes/ponds.  Surprised to see no one else there on a perfect Friday.

After a clear, windy night, we started up at 4am to Glacier Peak.  The going was easy on firm snow with crampons.  We summited at 9am after a ridiculously long blue bag break 800 feet below the summit.  Passed 40-ish climbers on our way down, most roped up and looking pretty sweaty, having to slog in what was now mashed potatoes and hot sun. 

20180714_073912.jpgAbove Glacier Gap we veered a little southeast up the Suiattle Glacier.  There are many thin crevasses in the center of the glacier, easily avoided.  It was lower angle terrain than the White Chuck and Cool glaciers. Still, we found it necessary to use crampons as this area faces a bit north and was still solid at mid-morning.  A jet flew over Glacier Peak.  Seems they like the area for training; we heard or saw jets all three days.  

20180714_131131.jpgKololo Peaks are class 2 and walking from one to the other is simple.  We made the east summit (the obviously higher one) around 2pm.  Great views of Tenpeak Mountain and Luahna.  I think the next adventure revealed itself from up there.  From the west summit, we worked our way down a finger of the White Chuck Glacier back to camp, pumping water along the way.  There was nothing open on the descent and it seems the glacier has largely been laid to rest.  Made it back to camp by 3:15 for pre-dinner sausage and naps.  A pretty chill double summit day for this crew.  Hike out Sunday morning took 6 hours.  GPS track here.

A trip solely to Kololo Peaks would be an extremely long trip for something so pedestrian.  White Pass is beautiful and the views from the peaks are stunning.  But for anyone who enjoys mountaineering or climbing, I think it would feel rather empty.  Paired with Glacier, it helped fill an easy, short summit day.