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Trip Report    

Kangaroo Temple/North Face

This was our second climb of the weekend following SEWS South Arête the previous day. Excellent weather, but heavy wildfire smoke. The small tarn below Wallaby Pass is about 1/5th its usual size.
It's an excellent and fun climb with lots of dramatic exposure. A couple of folks reported feeling nervous about the first pitch, but everyone did very well and cruised smoothly through the horizontal crack pitch.
It's worth packing a #4 and a #3 cam to protect the horizontal crack.
Rappel notes: Another Oly party was forced to leave two ropes behind on the previous day. The lip of the summit rappel is very sharp, and the knot in the double-rope rappel setup stuck on the lip. We retrieved it by moving the knot below the lip before the last rappeller left the anchors. One of our ropes wrapped around a flake when pulling it from the final rappel, but Corey did some fancy lariat moves to retrieve it.
A good day in the mountains with a strong and motivated team. Not bad!
As noted in my SEWS South Arête report, there were no campsites available at Lone Fir, so we headed down to Klipchuck. It's a good alternative, and a few miles closer to the Mazama Grocery.