Kangaroo Temple/North Face

8/2/2015
This was our second climb of the weekend following SEWS South Arête the previous day. Excellent weather, but heavy wildfire smoke. The small tarn below Wallaby Pass is about 1/5th its usual size.
It's an excellent and fun climb with lots of dramatic exposure. A couple of folks reported feeling nervous about the first pitch, but everyone did very well and cruised smoothly through the horizontal crack pitch.
It's worth packing a #4 and a #3 cam to protect the horizontal crack.
Rappel notes: Another Oly party was forced to leave two ropes behind on the previous day. The lip of the summit rappel is very sharp, and the knot in the double-rope rappel setup stuck on the lip. We retrieved it by moving the knot below the lip before the last rappeller left the anchors. One of our ropes wrapped around a flake when pulling it from the final rappel, but Corey did some fancy lariat moves to retrieve it.
A good day in the mountains with a strong and motivated team. Not bad!
As noted in my SEWS South Arête report, there were no campsites available at Lone Fir, so we headed down to Klipchuck. It's a good alternative, and a few miles closer to the Mazama Grocery.