Kangaroo Temple/North Face

A short approach, and a fun low 5th class rock climb on excellent rock, with an airy corner on the 3rd pitch. A bonus 4th pitch goes up a slab is enjoyable or you can scramble up sandy ledges. Enjoy views of the Washington Pass peaks. Goats are sometimes in the area. Times: 7-8 hr trailhead to summit.

Getting There

Drive SR 20 (North Cascades Highway) to Washington Pass. Continue 1 mile to the hairpin turn and park in large turnout.

APPROACH

Ascend valley southeast, staying in right edge of any timber, to its head at Kangaroo Pass (see sketch map in Beckey, p. 232). From here, look directly east. Kangaroo Temple is the first prominent peak, separated from the Wallaby mass above it by a sharp notch. Head to this notch by contouring down along the edge of slabs that descend from Wallaby.

Drop about 20 feet below the pass to pickup a good climbers trail. Stay close (so close you can touch them) to the slabs between Kangaroo Pass and the Notch. From notch stay high as possible under boiler plate, foot path is not obvious but is much faster than going down into basin. Reach a moderately steep, loose, dirty gully at the base of Kangaroo Temple and ascend it to the north ridge notch. May need crampons in gully early season. Begin roped climbing from here.

ASCENT ROUTE

Climb up leftward over rib and ascend furrow, to a narrow belay ledge at a fixed pin on a steep nose.

For the second pitch, traverse right along a ledge and go up and over a large detached slab boulder. Find hidden crack, shoulder high at base of steep wall for belay anchor.

The 3rd pitch is short. Lead around corner to dramatic exposure. Hand traverse and step across to small belay tree of questionable merit due to its impending death.

The crux crack starts the fourth pitch. Find a small hand hold on left wall, a 5.4 move. Continue up sandy benches with good belay trees.

Unrope just below summit and scramble to the top, or stay roped up and climb the slab to the top.

DESCENT ROUTE

Return to unroping point. Walk out to the rappel bolts overlooking the north face. Rappel anchor is not obvious. Climb over and then down to top of North Face where there are three bolts with hangers. Two double length (50 m) rappels from this and either the next set of bolts or a flake and tree 30 ft below these bolts, lead back to the notch where you started the climb.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HOURS) ELEVATION GAIN (FEET)
Trailhead to Pass 2 1,500
Pass to Notch 1.5 900
Notch to Summit 4
Summit to Trailhead 4

EQUIPMENT

Standard rock equipment, chocks to 2 inches, ice ax in early season.

NOTES

  • This is a pleasurable, exciting climb with gorgeous scenery, but it is not a first climb for the timid. Rope leaders should be confident and competent.
  • Either car camp the night before, or tent camp the previous afternoon south of Kangaroo Pass.
  • The first pitch has some loose rock so the belayer should be careful to avoid the direct line below the climber. The remainder of climb is very sound, low 5th class rock.
  • When traversing from Kangaroo Pass toward climb, be sure to pass beneath all major slabs.
  • First pitch requires full rope.
  • Parking at the switchback may not be possible very early in the season because of snowbanks.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: May, June, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
  • Length: 6.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 2,500 ft
  • 7,572 ft
Map
  • USGS Silver Star Mtn
  • USGS Washington Pass
  • Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
  • Green Trails Washington Pass No. 50
Activities

Upcoming Activities

Basic Rock Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
This is a basic rock climb for the Tacoma Basic Alpine Climbing Course.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sun, May 29, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
2 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes May 27
Tacoma Branch

Basic Rock Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
moderate day, early-season climb for Lauren & Pradnya's SIG
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sat, Jun 11, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
1 participant on waitlist 3 leaders
Registration closes Jun 9
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
A one-day Basic Rock climb for students of the Seattle "Intro to Alpine Rock" course.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sun, Jun 12, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
10 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Jun 9
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
An excellent basic rock climb in the North Cascades. Priority for the SMR-C SIG.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sat, Jul 2, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration closes Jun 30
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
SIG Priority Outing: A WA Pass Basic Classic
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sun, Jul 10, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
0 participants 1 leader
Registration opens Jun 27
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
For students that are on the SEWS climb the previous day, Friday.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sat, Jul 23, 2022
Prerequisites
1 participant 1 leader
Registration opens Jul 20
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
Priority given to Olympia Basic Climbing participants until July 20th, 2022. THIS IS LUIS' MENTORED LEAD
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sun, Jul 31, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Jul 22
Olympia Branch

Basic Rock Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
One day rock climb of Kangaroo Temple. Please contact Albert Sidelnik (sidelnik@gmail.com) to be added
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sat, Aug 13, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
2 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Jun 13
Everett Branch

Basic Rock Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
priority to Fleming SIG...open to all after Aug 1st.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sun, Aug 14, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration closes Aug 12
Seattle Branch

Basic Rock Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
This is a basic rock climb for the Tacoma Basic Alpine Climbing Course.
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sat, Sep 10, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration closes Sep 8
Tacoma Branch
Trip Reports
Resources
Name/Description
GPS Route

A file in GPX format for GPS units of the Kangaroo Temple/North Face route. Submitted by Tim Nagle.

Climbing Topo

An image of Kangaroo Temple with the North Face climbing ascent and descent route information added. Submitted by Nathan Reed.

Mountaineers Beta & Brews: Basic Climbs 2021

A link to the YouTube video of The Mountaineers Beta & Brews: Basic Climbs 2021. The Kangaroo Temple presentation by Skye Stoury and Garrett Arnold begins at ~16:40.

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