Kangaroo Temple/North Face

A short approach, and a fun low 5th class rock climb on excellent rock, with an airy corner on the 3rd pitch. A bonus 4th pitch goes up a slab is enjoyable or you can scramble up sandy ledges. Enjoy views of the Washington Pass peaks. Goats are sometimes in the area. Times: 7-8 hr trailhead to summit.

Getting There

Drive SR 20 (North Cascades Highway) to Washington Pass. Continue 1 mile to the hairpin turn and park in large turnout.

APPROACH

Ascend valley southeast, staying in right edge of any timber, to its head at Kangaroo Pass (see sketch map in Beckey, p. 232). From here, look directly east. Kangaroo Temple is the first prominent peak, separated from the Wallaby mass above it by a sharp notch. Head to this notch by contouring down along the edge of slabs that descend from Wallaby.

Drop about 20 feet below the pass to pickup a good climbers trail. Stay close (so close you can touch them) to the slabs between Kangaroo Pass and the Notch. From notch stay high as possible under boiler plate, foot path is not obvious but is much faster than going down into basin. Reach a moderately steep, loose, dirty gully at the base of Kangaroo Temple and ascend it to the north ridge notch. May need crampons in gully early season. Begin roped climbing from here.

ASCENT ROUTE

Climb up leftward over rib and ascend furrow, to a narrow belay ledge at a fixed pin on a steep nose.

For the second pitch, traverse right along a ledge and go up and over a large detached slab boulder. Find hidden crack, shoulder high at base of steep wall for belay anchor.

The 3rd pitch is short. Lead around corner to dramatic exposure. Hand traverse and step across to small belay tree of questionable merit due to its impending death.

The crux crack starts the fourth pitch. Find a small hand hold on left wall, a 5.4 move. Continue up sandy benches with good belay trees.

Unrope just below summit and scramble to the top, or stay roped up and climb the slab to the top.

DESCENT ROUTE

Return to unroping point. Walk out to the rappel bolts overlooking the north face. Rappel anchor is not obvious. Climb over and then down to top of North Face where there are three bolts with hangers. Two double length (50 m) rappels from this and either the next set of bolts or a flake and tree 30 ft below these bolts, lead back to the notch where you started the climb.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HOURS) ELEVATION GAIN (FEET)
Trailhead to Pass 2 1,500
Pass to Notch 1.5 900
Notch to Summit 4
Summit to Trailhead 4

EQUIPMENT

Standard rock equipment, chocks to 2 inches, ice ax in early season.

NOTES

  • This is a pleasurable, exciting climb with gorgeous scenery, but it is not a first climb for the timid. Rope leaders should be confident and competent.
  • Either car camp the night before, or tent camp the previous afternoon south of Kangaroo Pass.
  • The first pitch has some loose rock so the belayer should be careful to avoid the direct line below the climber. The remainder of climb is very sound, low 5th class rock.
  • When traversing from Kangaroo Pass toward climb, be sure to pass beneath all major slabs.
  • First pitch requires full rope.
  • Parking at the switchback may not be possible very early in the season because of snowbanks.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: May, June, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
  • Length: 6.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 2,500 ft
  • 7,572 ft
Map
  • USGS Silver Star Mtn
  • USGS Washington Pass
  • Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
  • Green Trails Washington Pass No. 50
Activities

Upcoming Activities



Basic Alpine Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sat, Jun 23, 2018
Prerequisites
2 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Jun 21
Kitsap Branch

Basic Alpine Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sun, Jun 24, 2018
Prerequisites
5 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Jun 22
Tacoma Branch

Basic Alpine Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
This is a Basic Rock Climb with priority given to Olympia BC students. This will
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Mon, Jun 25, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
1 participant on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Jun 23
Olympia Branch

Basic Alpine Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
Basic SIG Rock Climb
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sat, Jul 21, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
5 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Jul 16
Seattle Branch

Basic Alpine Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
Please wait until registration opening date to contact
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sat, Jul 28, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Jun 30
Seattle Branch

Basic Alpine Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
2nd day of climbing at Washington Pass
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sat, Aug 4, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
2 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Aug 2
Seattle Branch

Basic Alpine Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Sat, Aug 25, 2018
Prerequisites
12 participants on waitlist 1 leader on waitlist
Registration closes Aug 23
Seattle Branch

Basic Alpine Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

Climbing Trip
Mentored climb for Krzysztof Ostrowski, please email him for permission (krzys.ostrowski@gmail.com). Priority for Tacoma Basic
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 4
Fri, Aug 31, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
6 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Aug 27
Tacoma Branch
Trip Reports
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