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Trip Report    

Intermediate Alpine Climb - Mount Hood/Leuthold Couloir

Successful climb of Leuthold couloir

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • Cat track to top of the palmer chairlift. 11000+ foot freezing levels earlier this week and current cold temps made for firm snow along the entire route. 

Left Timberline around 1:00am in windy, clear conditions. At illumination rock saddle, we took an extended break to discuss options. We met two parties who were retreating from the Reid due to high winds. Our party elected to continue on to the base of the Leuthold to evaluate. The glacier crossing was straightforward and the bergschrund below the leuthold was filled with enough old avy debris to cross. Once there, the wind had settled down enough for us to feel confident continuing on. As we simulclimbed through the hourglass, the wind returned bringing a constant shower of small ice pellets with it. We topped out on the ridge into sunshine and lighter winds. Exposed but easy traverse to summit was a highlight. Made it to summit around 9:00am. 

We descended the old chute which was firm but felt secure with crampons. Back at parking lot by 12:20. Lots of people on the mountain today, mostly ascending via south side/pearly gates. 

 

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