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Trip Report    

Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

Arrived TH Friday morning (12 July) by 8:30, stepped off by 9:00. Cruised to the shelter (5.5) in around 2 hours. Took a break before heading up the switchback to White Pass. Arrived camp at 6600ft around 6pm. Explored camping options in lower basin but continued on to find better protection from the wind and closer to water source.
Woke up at 5am on summit day and left at 6:20am. Route was extremely straight forward, able to follow a boot path entire way. Ascended Disappointment Cleaver, unsure of elevation getting onto the Gerdine Glacier. Easy glacier travel crossing onto the Cool Glacier. Crevasses starting to open up. Uneventful descent to camp, stopped for a few breaks and to filter water right before camp. Returned to camp at 6pm for a beautiful, calm night underneath the stars and milky way.
Departed camp 14 July 7am making stops at White Pass and the shelter. Arrived TH 2:30-3:00.
Attempted this climb last Sept 2-4. Had to turn back as there was no safe passage onto the Cool Glacier. This time of year proved much more reliable.

 

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