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Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

Successful climb in great conditions

Gerry Chu Gerry Chu
July 15, 2019
  • Road rough but passable

    • Great trail up to White Pass. Occasional snow in gullies beyond White Pass. Partially melted from pass @ 6600 to Glacier Gap.

My SIG had an amazing climb of Glacier Peak in primo conditions.
We saw
*Wildflowers galore
*Marmots
*Summit dogs
We ate
*Mountain House
*Couple day old pizza
*Jerkys from around the world
We heard
*Mice
*Marmots
*Fighter jets
General notes
Three day trip. We were a fast group. We camped at Glacier Gap, summited the next day then moved camp down to White Pass. On the third day, we hiked out in time for lunch. Beware of mice and secure food at Glacier Gap -- they ate through a pack and also into a tent. Use approach shoes.
Road
Forest service website says road will be closed for repairs for approximately 2 weeks sometime between August 19 and October 11th 2019. It also says high-clearance vehicles recommended but actually it wasn't a problem. https://www.fs.usda.gov/detailfull/mbs/alerts-notices/?cid=stelprdb5150593&width=full
Itinerary
Thursday night July 11
Camped at trailhead. Best free car camping sites I've ever seen.
Friday July 12
Left trailhead - 6:45
White Pass - beautiful flowers - lunch - 12:15
Pass @ 6600 ft - 1:30
White Chuck Glacier basin - sites are mostly melted out - marmots - 3:00
Glacier Gap - camp inside rock forts - has water - 4:45 (10hr)
Saturday
Left Glacier Gap - didn't put on crampons or rope up yet - 5
Below Disappointment Peak - some rockfall debris to go around - 7:15
Summit - 9:30 (4.5 hr)
Start down - 10:15
Glacier Gap - 12:30
Left camp - 2
White Pass - lots of camp space in big meadow - lounged around - 5:30
Sunday
Left camp - 6
Trailhead - 10
Nutty's Junkyard Grill in Arlington - 12
 

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Ben Egbers
Ben Egbers says:
Jul 17, 2019 08:49 PM

Nice trip report. Sounds like conditions are prime and looking forward to seeing them this weekend. Curious if you guys roped up or not (wasn't mentioned in the itinerary) and I've read a few trip reports saying it wasn't necessary (in their opinion). Obviously bringing a rope and full glacier gear but wondering how the crevasses/glacier(s) looked and whether it will be absolutely necessary or if it would be sufficient (and faster) to merely self-belay (axe and crampons). In any case, congrats on the summit!