Baker descent.JPG

Trip Report    

Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Easton Glacier

Baker/Easton Climb on Memorial Day 2017

  • Road impassable/closed
  • Snow blocking FS 13 about 2 miles from the TH but there was about 1/2 mile of no snow on the road beyond.  Should melt out to get you much closer within 2 weeks.

The climb of Baker/Easton followed the crevasse rescue FT for the Kitsap Basic class.  FS 13 had snow blockage about 2 miles from the Schreibner’s Meadow TH although once past the short blockage, it was bare road for about ½ mile before again hitting snow that was not passable.  The initial blockage should melt out by 2 weeks.  Traveled the route to Sandy Camp through the bottom of the moraine rather than using the Railroad Grade approach.  Good snow bridge across the creek still being used by the snowmobilers provided good passage for walking across.  Lower crevasse on the Easton was opened and worked well for the training on Sunday.  Monday, we were up at midnight and began climb at 1:15 AM.  Still fairly warm out and no need for thermal underwear pants.  Everyone using crampons.  Warm weather over past several days made for softer snow but with only slight penetration.  Around 9000’ elevation there was a slight crust to the snow but not sufficient for full support of climbers.  Crevasses that were open could be easily crossed with one step.  We saw skiers just ski over them with little apparent concern.  Boot path was easy to follow and ascent of Roman Wall was straightforward.  Arrived at the summit at 8:00 AM but conditions were such we could have made better time.  Dropped packs and un-roped to walk over to the official summit of Grant Peak.  Other climbers there who had arrived via the Coleman route.  Took traditional pictures on a sunny day with temp at the summit about 34 degrees.  Began descent at 8:30 AM.  A separate climb team from our branch had gone to Sherman peak with one climber experiencing vertigo.  Several of our rope teams held back for possible additional assistance.  Once at elevation 7800’, the climber was sufficiently recovered.  All teams back to Sandy camp by 12:45 PM.  Packed up and began descent using snowshoes about 2 PM.  Everyone back to the parked vehicles about 4:45 PM.  Good day with good climb teams!