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Glacier Climb - Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

Climb turned into overnight gear hike due to weather. Conditions report to white pass

Joe Petersen Joe Petersen
June 26, 2018
  • Road rough but passable

  • There are several washed out areas along the North Fork Sauk river road. These were passable in low clearance vehicles with a little care. Otherwise, road is in great shape. 

    Clear trail to PCT junction. Several short snow crossings in drainages between PCT junction and White pass- these are melting out quickly. Continuous snow from White pass to ridge crossing, though a well beaten out boottrack is present. Plentiful running water on ascent to and at White Pass. Other parties reported available water and open campsites along Whitechuck glacier but no running water beyond. 

Planned to climb glacier peak in 3 days. With a suboptimal weather forecast for the next few days, we began the trip hopeful but with low expectations for summiting. Beautiful weather was enjoyed on Sunday; the term "suckerhole" was used. To limit exposure to weather should the forecast prove correct, we opted to camp amongst trees at White Pass rather than continuing on to planned camp at Whitechuck glacier. This proved to be a wise move, as we were pummeled with winds and thunderstorms during the night. We woke to light showers, decamped and hiked out without incident.