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Crag Rock Climb - Kangaroo Temple/North Face

The area is beautiful and well worth the trip, and the climb is interesting and fun. The route description is a bit out of date; updates below.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • Here are a few details to add to the route description for Kangaroo Temple/North Face:

    Ascent

    P1: No changes.

    P2: A #4 Camalot or equivalent-size cam can be used to protect the step-around. The cam can be placed in a low crack at ankle height. 

    P2: The "belay tree of questionable merit" is extremely dead.  Plan to set a gear anchor to belay P3, after passing the tree corpse.  You can set an anchor in the first crack at the step-down, or move to the next crack and set an anchor there.  If you set an anchor in the second (crux) crack, you should arrange the anchor to leave room for your foot so that you can step up as high as possible to reach the handhold for the move up the crux.

    P3: No changes.

    Descent

    There are three rappel stations/anchors and it is possible to make three single-rope rappels. Despite what it says in the Northwest Face route description, it is not advisable to make three single rappels because the lowest anchor is "of questionable merit." The top anchor and the second anchor at the belay ledge are both good.

    The lowest anchor consists of one fixed pin. It seems solid, but it is weathered and pitted, and it looks like it has been there for decades. Also, a 60m rope just barely makes it from the ledge to the third anchor; a rope that is even slightly too short won't reach. For these reasons, three single rappels is possible but not advisable.

    To avoid the dodgy anchor, make a single-rope rappel from the top to the second anchor/belay ledge, and then make a double-rope rappel from the ledge to the ground.

    Reaching the rappel station below the summit can be a  little bit tricky.  The anchor is north of the summit, directly over the  notch where you probably left your packs. You can't see the anchor until you are almost to it.  To find the anchor, you must first down-climb or bypass a 2m ledge, and then continue out until you spot three bolts on an exposed slab.

It was your basic awesome alpine climb on a beautiful day with excellent companions. ;-) There is no snow on the route, no need for ice axes. The bugs near the lake are swarming and hungry; if you camp, take DEET and a head net.

 

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