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Chair Peak/Northeast Buttress (winter)

Successful climb in deep virgin snow.

Ian Lauder Ian Lauder
February 21, 2020
  • Road suitable for all vehicles

  • Ski track from parking lot to the flats before ascending to the base of he climb was in good shape. No tracks or signs anyone had been up Chair Peak recently or even to the base.   3 hours to get to the base of the climb putting in a boot path in deep fresh snow ankle to waist deep.

    Route has a lot of snow coverage.  All the pitches were deep snow and all the commonly used existing anchors (except large trees) were buried in snow.

    Ice seemed kind of rotten, had to poke around for good pick placements and the handful of screw placements that felt okay.   Relied on pickets for most pro (had 3, 4 would have been better).

    Ice step is there but didn't find good placements at the base for screws so just led up it using a belay over on top of the ridge, then put in a horizontal deadman picket anchor midway up the upper slope, then one last pitch just placing a couple pickets to the top.

Party of 4.  13 hours car to car.  3hrs to base.  Had to break trail in deep snow the entire route.

Great team worked well together, had just the right amount of gear to make it work (6 screws - used 3, 3 pickets - could have used 4, handful of nuts and  a couple pitons.  Used 2 nuts and tried to get a piton in but wasn't the right size.

Snow was very steep on the 1st pitch covering the webbing anchor. Thin crust over up to waist deep sugar snow underneath.   Took 1hr to lead the 1st pitch having to dig out a path in the snow.