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Trip Report    

Chair Peak/Northeast Buttress

We left the parking lot at 6:15 am and got back at 10:00 pm. This is a long approach and a long climb to complete if you have basic students new to alpine rock climbing. Plus we had three 2-person ropes (I recommend no more than two ropes, to save time). From the top of the 304 pitches of roped climbing, the party scrambled to and over the false summit to the main summit (don't do this, or even the climb, if rock is wet; despite a dry day, we had to avoid wet streaks and wet moss in places). Rappell down initial chimney can be completed with two 60-m ropes. We approached the usual way up the talus, but chose to go out via the ridge leading to the start of the climb. The herd path eventually fades and we had to do some headlamp bushwhacking - no time saved.