Black Peak/Northeast Ridge

Black Peak/Northeast Ridge

Climb dates: August 16-17, 2014

From: Stephen Sugiyama

Our party of seven started from the Lake Ann trailhead at Rainy Pass at 10:30 a.m. and arrived at Wing Lake at 2:00 p.m. There are many camp sites spread around the area so even though there were several other groups we were by ourselves. Alone, except for the mosquitos and a large goat.

We started climbing at 5:15 a.m., ascending to the notch on the northeast ridge on steep scree and snow fields. The route follows the ridge, starting on the left, and is mostly fourth or low fifth class climbing with lots of exposure and some loose rock. We climbes as 3 rope teans, and mixed belayed pitches and simul-climbing as appropriate.

We reached the summit at 11:00 a.m. and enjoyed the views through intermittent clouds. We were ahead of one other party on the route but they never caught up to us. We descended the South Ridge route, which is marked with cairns until the long, broad, crummy gully that funnels down to Wing Lake. We packed up camp and were back at the cars by 4:15 p.m.

Gear: Crampons and ice axe for the snow field. Medium rack to 2 inches. 30 and 40 m ropes.

Photo Link: https://www.flickr.com/photos/sugiyama_ss/sets/72157646601820975/