Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Well organized climb led by Tad Englund.

Forecast called for deteriorating weather in the afternoon, including possible thunderstorm. After some discussion, leaders chose to go ahead with expectation that team would turn around if condition worsened at any point. As it so happens, weather stayed nice and cloud starting moving in only when we returned to the car.

We were first team on the trail, though a pair of climbers passed us as we hiked up the basin. Since they did not seem very familiar with the route options, we recommended they try the SW face. Talking with them later on the summit, they found the route licheny but a fun adventure, so that worked well for both of us.

In order to save time, the first two pitches were linked for a full rope length. This saved time overall, but last team had to wait over an hour to get started. First rope team chose to go up the last pitch directly while others chose the catwalk instead. Other teams showed up on our tail, but were off the climbing route by the time we started the final two rappels. Team chose to rappel down to the basin (two single rope rappels), then hopped on rocks and slid down the scree back to the trail (climbers left on grassy shelf).

We were surprised to find so many other hikers on the trail given the weather forecast and fog moving in. We were relieved later to see some of them back off the trail as we were eating dinner at the Commonwealth.

0600 start

0900 Pineapple Pass

1200 all teams on summit

1620 back at cars