Placeholder Routes & Places

Trip Report    

Basic Rock Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Not much to say- Basic Tooth climb Notes about permanent gear

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • As always.

Left the parking lot at 6:15 a.m., and arrived at the base of the climb at 9 a.m. Returned at 3:45.  Very leisurely trip on the way out, stopping for water and at a conversational pace.

We were the only ones on the South Face climb (until halfway through the rappels, see below).   up. I combined the second and third pitches (70 m rope was more than enough) with a bit of rope drag at the end.  Just scrambled the 3rd pitch, though I was attached to the rope, and belayed the second up.
There are two permanent cams on the catwalk, both right next to each other and both green.  There is also a green cam on the second pitch if you get way out to climber's left above the large detached flake.  What is the deal with green cams?  There is also a cam up under a rock that someone put some Perlon on.  

Rappel- a 70m will make it all the way to a ledge above the third rappel and you can scramble skiers right around and down to the 3rd rappel station. 

We didn't run into anyone until the last rappel station and we hit a major log jam.  The last rappel station shares a small space with the belay for below and above.  This really slowed everything down to a crawl.  We were ahead of a number of groups climbing other routes but rappelling the South route.  It was good to be in front even though we had to wait a bit.

There were 5 groups climbing Tooth Fairy (and 2 waiting after them), 2-4 groups climbing the routes next to that, and a couple of groups coming up the other side.  I guess it was good to start early, but the first guys on the fairy started out at 5 a.m.

Just a regular Saturday in August.