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Trip Report    

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Easton Glacier

Successful early season overnight climb

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • Road is driveable by all cars, and we were able to get to about 0.5 miles of the trailhead before a big snow berm blocked passage. 

    Approach: stayed on the snowmobile track in the valley and then accessed Railroad Grade from the east (instead of the usual approach through Schreiber's Meadow). Stream crossings were fine, but snow is melting quickly. Watch for  holes in the snow bridges and moats around rock features. We saw one small group of snowmobiles on the return trip.

    Easton route was in great shape, with only a couple of small crevasses open (step over). Roman Wall was the mellowest we've ever seen it, with a great bootpack. Bergschrund is starting to open, though; we were able to cross on snow bridges that seemed solid. 

Approach: started hiking ~10am, camp at 6500ft by 3:30pm (hot day + some participant health & fitness issues)

Three climbers stayed in camp. 

Two rope teams for summit bid. Started walking at 1:30am, strong winds starting around 9500ft, summit at 6:45am in strong winds, back to camp by 10am. Started hike out at 11:30am, back at cars at 2:15pm.

Many thanks to my excellent assistant leaders, and to the entire team.