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Trip Report    

Basic Glacier Climb - Baker/Colfax saddle

A great conditioner and a valuable experience dealing with less than ideal circumstances.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • Critical snow bridge at around 8,650 melting as we speak.

Keeping it short, since the mentored lead Alina Badus will write a full and detailed report.

The original plan was to tag Baker via Coleman, but upon reaching the Baker/Colfax saddle, one of the participants reported nausea. Just moments before on the way up, the climber had reported having had severe headache in the camp the night before, but feeling ok now. Upon further probing, it turned out mild headache was still present, the climber felt very tired, and described their nausea symptoms as very intense. With severe symptoms, and hours before sunrise would raise the temps, staying in place was unacceptable, and concluding the climb and coming down as quickly as possible was the only  sensible option. The climber reported feeling much better after losing elevation.

Declaring this climb as successful, since we all got what we came here for - a great conditioner, several hours of slogging along Coleman and a dinner on the glacier, a couple of scary snow bridge crossings, and great views all around. Mentored lead Alina Badus has done a great job putting it together, and we have all gained a valuable experience dealing with a situation that was less than ideal.

That said, having spent quality time in my bivy in the heat of the afternoon sun, I do think "Mt. Broiler" would have been technically more correct:


Great job everyone, and thanks for this experience climbing together!