Mount Baker/Coleman Glacier

This route gains 7,000 feet in a distance of 5.5 miles, climbing the moderate Coleman Glacier, the top part of the Deming Glacier, and Roman Wall before reaching the flat summit plateau. Views from camp and the summit are spectacular. Times: 3-4 hr trailhead to camp, 6-9 hr camp to summit.

getting there

From I-5 just north of Bellingham, drive east on SR-542 (Sunset Highway) to 1 mile east of Glacier. Turn right (south) on Forest Road 39 (Glacier Creek Road) and continue 9 miles to head of Mount Baker Trailhead (3,700 ft).

APPROACH

Hike up Heliotrope Ridge Trail to the site of the old cabin and follow climbers' trail beyond (trail is covered with snow early in season) and up steep ridge to moraine at the edge of the glacier. Base camp may be made here (~6,000 ft). Many climbers continue, proceeding south and ascending to ~7,000 ft where base camp can be made along the ridge or at the base of the Black Buttes.

ASCENT ROUTE

Grant Peak (10,778 ft)

Ascend from the base camp, proceed south and climb gradually southeast toward the Black Buttes. Skirt along the Black Buttes, keeping far enough away to avoid avalanches or rockfall, then go easterly to the saddle between the base of the Roman Wall (on the main mountain) and the Black Buttes (~9,200 ft at the saddle). From the saddle, ascend the rocky ridge northeast keeping right of the Roman Wall. Ascend steep snow past the Roman Wall to the large summit plateau. The summit is at the far east-northeast side.

colfax peak (9,355 ft)

From base camp proceed south and climb gradually southeast toward the Black Buttes. Skirt along the Black Buttes, keeping far enough away to avoid avalanches or rockfall, climbing to the saddle between Mount Baker and Colfax Peak. From the saddle climb snow slopes to the summit.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the climbing route.

TRIP PROFILE

Grant Peak

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Trailhead to Camp 3-4 2,300
Camp to Summit 6-9 4,800
Summit to Camp 2-3
Camp to Trailhead 2-3

Colfax peak

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Trailhead to Camp 3-4 2,300
Camp to Summit 4-6 4,400
Summit to Camp 2-3
Camp to Trailhead 2-3

 

EQUIPMENT

Standard glacier equipment including wands.

noteS

  • There are many crevasses on this climb.
  • The start of the Coleman Glacier can be tricky to discern, so rope up when the slope steepens at ~6,000 ft. 
  • In good weather views from camp on ridge near Buttes and from summit are spectacular.
  • Climb can be done in a single day, if you start very early.
  • Forest Road 39 (Glacier Creek road)  is susceptible to washouts.

Information for LEADERS

Priority Climbs List

This is a very popular climbing route. Please check the PRIORITY CLIMBS LIST before listing trip to be sure your branch has priority for this route for the dates you plan to schedule it.

Field trips

Use the Heliotrope Ridge and Lower Coleman Glacier & Seracs route/place for glacier travel, crevasse rescue and ice climbing field trips on the lower section of the Coleman Glacier.


  • Suitable Activities: Backcountry Skiing, Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Advanced Glacier Ski
  • Length: 11.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 8,100 ft
  • 10,778 ft
Map
  • USGS Mt Baker
  • Green Trails Mount Baker Wilderness Climbing No. 13SX
  • Green Trails Mt Baker No. 13
Activities

Upcoming Activities

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Coleman Glacier

Climbing Trip
Mount Baker summit attempt for Bellingham Basic Course students in Snow II June 1st/2nd.
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Advanced Glacier Ski
Mon, Jun 3, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
9 participants 2 leaders
Registration closed Oct 2
Bellingham Branch

Basic Glacier Climb - Colfax Peak

Climbing Trip
2 Day climb of Colfax Peak (TBD if via Easton or Coleman glaciers).
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Advanced Glacier Ski
Sat, Jun 8, 2024 - Sun, Jun 9, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
2 participants 0 leaders
Registration closes Jun 6
Everett Branch
Rodica Manole

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Coleman Glacier

Climbing Trip
Prioirty for Everett Basic Students till May 30th open for other branches after May 30th.
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Advanced Glacier Ski
Sat, Jul 6, 2024 - Sun, Jul 7, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
2 participants 2 leaders
Registration closes Jul 4
Everett Branch
Khrum Kashan

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Coleman Glacier

Climbing Trip
Mentored lead for Mandi
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb
Tue, Jul 9, 2024 - Wed, Jul 10, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
8 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Jun 9
Seattle Branch
Annora Ayer

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Coleman Glacier

Climbing Trip
Mount Baker summit attempt for Bellingham Basic Course students participating in the Alpine Ice Field
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Advanced Glacier Ski
Mon, Jul 15, 2024
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
11 participants
Registration closed Oct 2
Bellingham Branch

TAC MAC Alpine Climb - Mount Baker/Coleman Glacier

Youth Field trip: Mountaineers Adventure Club - Tacoma
Alpine climb for Tacoma MAC Students. Georgia's leadership climb
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb
Thu, Jul 18, 2024 - Fri, Jul 19, 2024
No Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
9 participants 2 instructors
Registration opens Jun 1; Instructor registration open now
Tacoma Branch
Sarah Holt
Qualified Youth Leader
Trip Reports
Titles

This is a list of titles that represent the variations of trips you can take at this route/place. This includes side trips, extensions and peak combinations. Not seeing a title that fits your trip? Log in and send us updates, images, or resources.

  • Colfax Peak
Resources