Mount Baker/Coleman Glacier

This route gains 7,000 feet in a distance of 5.5 miles, climbing the moderate Coleman Glacier, the top part of the Deming Glacier, and Roman Wall before reaching the flat summit plateau. Views from camp and the summit are spectacular. Times: 3-4 hr trailhead to camp, 6-9 hr camp to summit.

getting there

From I-5 just north of Bellingham, drive east on SR 542 (Sunset Highway) to 1 mi east of Glacier. Turn right (south) on Glacier Creek Road and continue 9 mi to head of Mount Baker Trail (3,700 ft).

APPROACH

Hike up Heliotrope Ridge Trail to the site of the old cabin and follow climbers' trail beyond (trail is covered with snow early in season) and up steep ridge to moraine at the edge of the glacier. Base camp may be made here (~6,000 ft). Many climbers continue, proceeding south and ascending to ~7,000 ft where base camp can be made along the ridge or at the base of the Black Buttes.

ASCENT ROUTE

Grant Oeak (10,778 ft)

Ascend from the base camp, proceed south and climb gradually southeast toward the Black Buttes. Skirt along the Black Buttes, keeping far enough away to avoid avalanches or rockfall, then go easterly to the saddle between the base of the Roman Wall (on the main mountain) and the Black Buttes (~9,200 ft at the saddle). From the saddle, ascend the rocky ridge northeast keeping right of the Roman Wall. Ascend steep snow past the Roman Wall to the large summit plateau. The summit is at the far east-northeast side.

colfax peak (9,355 ft)

From base camp proceed south and climb gradually southeast toward the Black Buttes. Skirt along the Black Buttes, keeping far enough away to avoid avalanches or rockfall, climbing to the saddle between Mount Baker and Colfax Peak. From the saddle climb snow slopes to the summit.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the climbing route.

TRIP PROFILE

Grant Peak

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Trailhead to Camp 3-4 2,300
Camp to Summit 6-9 4,800
Summit to Camp 2-3
Camp to Trailhead 2-3

Colfax peak

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Trailhead to Camp 3-4 2,300
Camp to Summit 4-6 4,400
Summit to Camp 2-3
Camp to Trailhead 2-3

 

EQUIPMENT

Standard glacier equipment including wands.

noteS

  • There are many crevasses on this climb.
  • The start of the Coleman Glacier can be tricky to discern, so rope up when the slope steepens at ~6,000 ft. 
  • In good weather views from camp on ridge near Buttes and from summit are spectacular.
  • Climb can be done in a single day, if you start very early.
  • Forest Road 39 (Glacier Creek road)  is susceptible to washouts.

Information for LEADERS

Priority Climbs List

This is a very popular climbing route. Please check the PRIORITY CLIMBS LIST before listing trip to be sure your branch has priority for this route for the dates you plan to schedule it.

Field trips

Use the Heliotrope Ridge and Lower Coleman Glacier & Seracs route/place for glacier travel, crevasse rescue and ice climbing field trips on the lower section of the Coleman Glacier.


  • Suitable Activities: Backcountry Skiing, Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Mountain 2 Glacier Ski
  • Length: 11.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 8,100 ft
  • 10,778 ft
Map
  • USGS Mt Baker
  • Green Trails Mt Baker No. 13
  • Green Trails Mount Baker Wilderness Climbing No. 13S
Activities

Upcoming Activities



Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Coleman Glacier

Climbing Trip
Super fun climb of Mt Baker via Coleman Glacier / Roman Wall for students of
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Mountain 2 Glacier Ski
Fri, Jun 22, 2018 - Sat, Jun 23, 2018
Prerequisites
3 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closed Jun 15
Seattle Branch

Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Coleman Glacier

Climbing Trip
Cokus/Shih SIG climb only
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Mountain 2 Glacier Ski
Sun, Jun 24, 2018 - Mon, Jun 25, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration closes Jun 21
Seattle Branch

Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Coleman Glacier

Climbing Trip
This is an extension of the hard snow field trip and is open to only
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Mountain 2 Glacier Ski
Sat, Jun 30, 2018 - Sun, Jul 1, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
11 participants
Registration closes Jun 28
Bellingham Branch

Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Coleman Glacier

Climbing Trip
Preference to Taylor / Eades SIG until registration opens then anyone who meets requirements in
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Mountain 2 Glacier Ski
Sun, Jul 22, 2018 - Mon, Jul 23, 2018
Prerequisites
11 participants on waitlist 4 leaders on waitlist
Registration closes Jul 20
Seattle Branch

Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Coleman Glacier

Climbing Trip
Priority climb for 2018 Intense Basic until July 16th. No requests will be answered from
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Mountain 2 Glacier Ski
Sat, Jul 28, 2018 - Sun, Jul 29, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
8 participants 3 leaders
Registration opens Jul 16
Seattle Branch
Trip Reports
Titles

This is a list of titles that represent the variations of trips you can take at this route/place. This includes side trips, extensions and peak combinations. Not seeing a title that fits your trip? Log in and send us updates, images, or resources.

  • Colfax Peak
Resources

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