Trip Report    

Basic Alpine Climb - The Tooth/South Face

One day climb of the Tooth via South Face with a team of 7.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • Clear trail up to Source Lake. Snow once in the talus fields which was very nice and solid in the morning. We did not need crampons as the top layer of snow was soft. Getting up to the notch still had snow but looked to be less challenging than earlier reports. One odd step off snow onto rock was easily navigated by all participants. A patch of snow on the back of Pineapple Pass had a great bootpack. Scramble up to Pineapple Pass and the entire climb were snow free. 

    We rapped down from Pineapple pass with two 60m ropes. Took a little bit of time but seemed overall safer than having 7 tired people downclimbing. Had not ever done that rappel but it worked well!  

    The snow on the walk out became a bit hazardous with shallow snow post-holing in the lower talus field but we were cautious and everyone made it back to the trail without mishap. 

    One creek crossing to note: the big creek that flows from Bryant down to Source lake. One side of the creek is melted out and steep dirt. There is snow in the creek and on the opposite side (when approaching the Tooth) that is well packed. Currently this is solid/thick snow but I imagine it’ll be melting out quickly and may become dangerous for falling through into the creek. 

Lots of good stories and laughing on our climb. The day went as planned and we lucked out on weather. The flowers along the trail are amazing right now. Participants did great putting together skills that they’ve practiced in field trips. Went real smoothly and I couldn’t ask for a better day out.