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Trip Report    

Basic Alpine Climb - The Tooth/South Face

no snow on climbing route

  • Road suitable for all vehicles

winter route in fine shape, snow from parking lot.  crossover from east to west, at where some folks call pineapple pass, (and was reported to be in excellent shape this last weekend) has melted to the point where there is now a very thin(18") snow bridge in one spot, which made me decide to take evasive maneuvers - we looped  around, on good snow, east, then ssw and then circled back up to the base of the climb.  the climbing route was snow free(be very careful of undermined snow getting to the base of climb from the sw).  often rapping from the base of the climb to the to ne, down the dirty gully, is a bad idea and it proved to be a bad idea this time too :<(  found a couple of  moats and some seriously undermined snow that made rapping a lot more of an adventure. 

 3:41 car to base of climb(including 1:08 evasive maneuvers)
 5:28 climb to summit, summit stay, rap, return to base of climb, rap to the east
 1:14 from last rap to car
10:23  car to car  

equipment:
cams placed: .5, #1 cams
nuts placed: blue 9
cams brought: blue alien, (qty 2).5, .75, 1
nuts brought: blue 9
brought 5 single slings/quickdraws, 1 double runner

 

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Rob Cranfill
Rob Cranfill says:
Sat, May 19, 2018 12:12 PM

Thanks for the TR!