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Basic Alpine Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

climbing route essentially snow free. winter/spring approach in perfect shape

  • Road suitable for all vehicles

4.21mi 2528' gain
1:55 car to base of climb
5:21 climbing time(including: getting ready to climb and afterwards, putting all the climbing gear away)*
0:56 base of climb to car
8:12 car to car

*climbing stats:
0:37 gear up and wait for modern to lead first pitch
1:29 climb and belay two pitches
0:49 scramble to summit(including leading the whaleback)
0:36 summit stay
1:24 downclimb(including two rappels) back to base of climb
 
modern led and put a sling and biner around tree just above the friction move so i had top rope for the first moves
 
equipment: ice axe, crampons, helmet, harness, (2)50m ropes, modern used .5 cam, .75 cam, #4 bd nut
equipment i brought, but not used: #1 cam, .75 cam, .5 cam, shovel, radios

compare to 2016:
 2:30 car to base of climb
 8:57 climbing time(including: getting ready to climb and afterwards, putting all the climbing gear away)
 1:35 base of climb to car
13:02 car to car

compare to 2015:
 2:17 car to base of climb
 7:14 climbing time(including: getting ready to climb and afterwards, putting all the climbing gear away)
 1:51 base of climb to car
11:22 car to car

to protect first climbing move place a .5 cam in crack below it, placed a .75 cam above and right, placed a small black bd (#4) nut in horizontal crack above the first climbing move.  did not place anymore gear.  second pitch was a scramble up to the chimney which i had the previous rope team, once i was 20' below the end of it, throw me down a top rope.  i secured a rope across the whaleback and i cleaned it on the way down.  students did 3 raps, modern and i did two.

equipment brought, but not used: crampons

compare to 2014:
 1:58 car to base of climb
 7:34 climbing time(including: getting ready to climb and afterwards, putting all the climbing gear away)
 0:57 base of climb to car
10:28 car to car

compare to 2013:
1:32 car to base of climb
6:54 climbing time(including: getting ready to climb and afterwards, putting all the climbing gear away)
0:47 base of climb to car
9:13 car to car

 

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