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Trip Report    

Basic Alpine Climb - Sahale Peak/Quien Sabe Glacier

Overall, a successful trip with good conditions.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • See below.

It was tough to get a group camping permit for Boston Basin.  Two leaders went to Marblemount the day prior to the climb to get the permit.  By 6:20 AM, the parking lot was full of cars, and we got number 11, but were able to get a permit, due to going over early.  We were glad we contacted the ranger station prior to the climb and found out that it’s critical to be early to get the permit.  Also, bear canisters are required if camping at Boston Basin.  The ranger station has some available, but they do run out.  Make sure your group is prepared.  Rangers checked our group permit twice while on the trip.

The hike to Boston Basin was challenging for this group.  The trail is steep, loose in places, and overgrown at times.  All climbers managed creek crossings easily.   We camped high, and left two hours ahead of time (1 AM start), as rain and thunderstorms were predicted after 11 AM.  The glacier was in great shape, and the bergschrund was not a problem.  We took crampons off to scramble the first rock section; placed pickets for a fixed line along the exposed ridge in two places, then scrambled to the summit, using a handline. Our group took turns ascending the summit block, then rapping down, as the summit is so small.   Excellent views, but when we descended to the glacier, visibility dropped to near whiteout conditions.  We were able to navigate back through the crevasses to camp, and arrived by 10 AM.  Cloudy conditions, but no rain or thunderstorms on our hike to the trailhead.