afb-pano---neher-man-and-hans-on-mclellan-summit.jpg

Trip Report    

Basic Alpine Climb - McClellan Peak

crystal creek approach

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
mcclellan 7-1 + 7-2-2016

quick and dirty route info: take ingalls creek trail(tons of camp spots all along the trail) to crystal creek, do not cross creek(camp spot available), instead walk the trail back 50' or so and head up. we found potential camp spots at 4500', 4800' and 6000' basin(the best). take basin to saddle below crystal lake. do a rising traverse. aim for gully climber's right of prong. at top of gully, head uphill, traverse climber's right and below some rocks and once past look uphill left- that is the summit. for the summit block we worked climber's left onto some slabs(class 4) on descent we worked skier's left, of the slabs we ascended, into a hidden sort of chimney/gully(class 3), exited it and then downclimbed the slabs. there is probably an easier way to do the summit block(going climber's right around the base of the summit block and then once past ascend classs 2/3). found water almost all along the route, which i am sure will not be there in the fall.

23.64mi 6505' gain
6:40 car to camp (6000' next to crystal creek seasonal lake)
4:20 camp to summit
0:21 summit stay
3:51 summit to camp
0:34 break camp
6:31 camp to car(including 3:33 on ingalls creek trail)
22:17 car to car(not including overnight camping) (day one 6:40, day two 15:37)

equipment: ice axe, crampons, helmet

compare to 2014:
3:19 car to camp(along ingalls creek)
6:20 camp to summit
0:18 summit stay
4:54 summit to camp
3:19 camp to car (including ~0:20 breaking camp)
18:10 car to car(not including overnight camping)
McClellan Peak Ingalls Creek Approach Route Map