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Trip Report    

Basic Alpine Climb - Chair Peak/Northeast Buttress

14.5 hr climb of Chair Peak.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles

Met at the Snow Lake Trailhead at 0530. Geared up and moving by 0600. Reached the Thumbtack at 0745, base of the climb at approximately 0930. 

Clouds were high up and the summit was viewable from the trail. We thought we would have a larger weather window to summit; unfortunately, by the time we reached the Thumbtack the clouds had already moved in and we were in the clouds the entire climb.

First pitch went to the rap station about halfway up the traverse to the right, approximately half a rope length. Second pitch took us into the group of trees. Third pitch up to the lone tree (a little bit more than half a rope length). Fourth pitch to the really rusty bolts, up and to the left of the tree (you should be able to see a small gully, the bolts are directly above the V notch you view from the lone tree). Fifth pitch traversed across to the left to another tree. Sixth pitch up to another tree (full rope length). Seventh pitch to the summit block. Summited around 1300

The rain had started by this point (on and off) so we left the summit after 10 minutes. Scrambled back down to the tree at the top of our sixth pitch. Double rope rappelled  down to another tree, then single rope rappelled down to the rusty bolts. Double rope again down to the lone tree, single rope rappel down to the group of trees. Two more single rope rappels brought us to the base of the climb. Rappelled the gully down to the scree field and made our way out. Back at the Thumbtack at 1800. Back at our cars at 2030.

Gear: 1 x 60m rope, 1 x 70m rope, two racks .3 to 3, 6 single runners and 6 double runners each leader. I think I used 5 pieces of pro for the entire climb while Wes used 3.

 

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