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Trip Report    

Basic Alpine Climb - Argonaut Peak/South Route

Successful summit of Argonaut with some short challenges due to conditions.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • Short section of steep, hard 30-45 deg snow.  Dangerous and unstable rock and boulders from recent slide near the gully fork.

From camp we headed east on Ingalls Creek Trail approx 100 yes then leave trail heading up and left to avoid slide alder.  Traversed across a dry gully then up open forest to main gully parallel ridge.  I recommend staying on the ridge as long as possible to just below slabby waterfalls.  Cross the gully there and pass waterfalls on the right.  Lots of loose avy debris you'll want to avoid.  
Once above waterfalls beware of more loose rock from a very recent rock slide that has the whole area covered with cars size, unstable boulders.  Some sitting on slabs ready to slide.  All of this came out of the right gully, so do not go there as this slide is still active and stuff was falling as we passed.
At approx 7500 ft, a 400 ft section of bullet proof snow is encountered with a bad runout.  We put in two hand lines with our single 30m rope.  Having another rope, or a longer one would of been nice.
Scrambled the rest of the way but felt the rating  should be solid class 3 with a few class 4 steps.
Protected the chockstone move with a .5 cam.
The steep snow slowed us again on the descent.  Everyone went down on hand lines attached to gear anchors and placed two pickets on the way down.  Leader down climbed cleaning.

Gear: .3 to 2.0 Cams.  Pink, red, brown Tri-cams.  2 Pickets.  One 30m rope but a second rope, or a longer one would of made things quicker.

16 hrs day.