The Tooth/Northeast Slab

GETTING THERE

Take Exit 52 off of I-90 at Snoqualmie Pass, and turn northwest onto Alpental Road and follow it to the Alpental parking area (3,100 ft).

APPROACH

Hike from the parking lot up the valley on the left side of the creek, near Source Lake, ascending the snow finger into the basin. Then ascend snow slope to a gully marking the start of the climb. Be aware of avalanche conditions.

ASCENT ROUTE

Pitch 1 climbs the gully, Pitch 2 continues to the ridge, Pitch 3 starts the ridge pitches from a tree anchor, Pitch 4 passes a rock prominence on the right, Pitch 5 traverses a snow and ice covered slab to a belay ledge, and the final pitch, Pitch 6, stays on the west side to the summit.

Note: Pitch 2 cannot be proteced and ia up to a 30m horizontal ascending traverse on 50°-60° slopes. It is dependent on having enough snow/ice coverage to get across.

DESCENT ROUTE

Rappel the South Face climbing route.

EQUIPMENT

Ice screws, pitons, pickets, alpine rock rack, ice tools.

information FOr leaders

Permits

As of 2017, the Snoqualmie Ranger District considers Mountaineers trips and courses to be "nominal use". Leaders should print and copy this designation letter to show rangers they may see on trail or carry a digital copy on their phone.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
• Seasons: January, February, March
• Weather: View weather forecast
• Avalanche Terrain Rating Challenging View avalanche forecast.

• Difficulty: Intermediate Ice Climb
• Length: 5.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 2,500 ft
• High Point: 5,600 ft

• Land Manager: Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
  Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Snoqualmie Ranger District (MBSNF)
• Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
• Recommended Party Size: 4
• Maximum Party Size: 6
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 6