Sawtooth Ridge: The Fin & The Horn

Climb one or both of these rock pinnacles, rated 5.4 and 5.5, respectively. They are located to the east of Flapjack Lakes in Olympic National Park. The 17-mile round-trip journey with 5,500 feet of elevation gain, leads to technical rock climbing routes on these two and the other spires of Sawtooth Ridge between Mount Cruiser and Mount Lincoln.

Getting There

Drive US-101 to Hoodsport and turn west onto SR-119. Continue 9.3 miles to an intersection, turn left and drive 1.7 miles where the road becomes Forest Road 24. In another 2.7 miles, stay right at the junction and continue 1.2 miles to the Staircase Ranger Station and trailhead (770 ft).

Approach

From the Staircase Ranger Station, follow the North Fork Skokomish River trail for about 3.4 miles to the trail junction at Spike Camp. The trail to the right continues more steeply for another 3.6 miles to Flapjack Lakes, where good campsites are available.

CLiMBING Route

From Flapjack Lakes, continue east along the trail toward Gladys Divide. At ~4,400 ft (before the small pond), leave the trail heading southeast toward Sawtooth Pass via an open snow/rock slope.

The main climbing route on The Fin (rated 5.4) begins beyond the pass on the northeast side and involves face climbing and an unusually deep chimney. Descent via the east face scramble route can be used to avoid rappelling.

For The Horn, scramble to the right (under the west face of The Fin) instead of continuing directly to Sawtooth Pass. Proceed to the notch south of The Horn to climb the Southeast Route or Southwest Route, both rated 5.5.

Notes

  • Flapjack Lakes is a limited use area so reservations are recommended. There are a limited number of overnight permits available on a first come basis.
  • For spires north of The Fin, approach via Needle Pass (see Mount Cruiser/Southwest Corner). For spires south of The Horn, approach via the Harniss Chute.
  • An alternative, more challenging approach to Sawtooth Ridge can be made from the east via Mildred Lakes in the Olympic National Forest.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: May, June, July, August, September
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Intermediate Rock Climb
  • Length: 17.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 5,500 ft
  • 5,500 ft
  • Land Manager: Olympic National Park
  • Parking Permit Required: National Park Entrance Fee
  • Recommended Party Size: 6
  • Maximum Party Size: 12
  • Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12
Map
  • Green Trails Olympic Mountains East No. 168S
Activities
Trip Reports
Titles

This is a list of titles that represent the variations of trips you can take at this route/place. This includes side trips, extensions and peak combinations. Not seeing a title that fits your trip? Log in and send us updates, images, or resources.

  • The Fin
  • The Horn
  • The Fin & The Horn
  • Castle Spires
  • The Needle
  • Sawtooth Ridge
  • Sawtooth Traverse
  • Sawtooth Ridge Traverse
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